Surprisingly, after searching, I could find nothing on this topic, though I'm sure a thread exists, so if there is a place this needs to be move to, don't hesitate to do so. <below these lies my query> I have recently ordere an Arctic cooling heatsink for my AMD Athlon XP 3000+ Processor to replace the standard AK-785cu (or something like that) one that came with it. I am replacing it for a few reasons: 1. CPU temperature at idle is 56ºC and at full load 61ºC. I am using a super flower rhtyhmic SF-464T2-S case which has fantastic cooling opportunities, meaning my motherboard temperature is around room temperature, 25ºC, at idle. A review of the new heatsink claimed to drop this to 55ºC absolute maximum. 2. Since the akasa heatsink only has a piffling 60mm fan, it spins at a ludicrous 5000rpm, generating a whopping 34.9dbA of noise. Okay, my power supply is over 31dBA, so the noise effects of changing to an 18dbA heatsink won't be great but because the fan spins so fast, the noise is high pitched, therefore irritating. A larger 80mm fan comes on the new heatsink. 3. My Superflower case has a blue LED fan in the side window and bubble tubes on the front. To enhance this effect, i will eventually put blue LED fans in the hard disk bracket to shine out the front of the case. This heatsink also has a blue fan, so it will add to my collection... My question is: I have no experience with CPU Coolers, what am i likely to expect after removing the existing cooler, and how do i guarantee that the new heatsink is fitted correctly, with proper removal/re-addition of thermal pads/fluid?
Hi Sam, Yes a bigger slower fan is always better - they can move more air and actually use less amps (watts) than fast (noisy) small ones. I have a trick, a small funnel-device I buy for $10 bucks that will mount an 80mm (usually Vantec Stealth) fan on a 60mm cooler. Better still is a stout cooler with 80mm or 120mm fan OEM. Did you see the thing at Tom's http://www.tomshardware.com/cpu/20050607/index.html "10 Mammoth CPU Coolers: Size Does Matter" I was surprised that they said the Asus turbo-thing was NFG ;^) Anyway, most of the coolers mounted all sockets but a couple didn't support SocketA... You have what, Socket 754? No, probably Socket 939 - so you're OK anyway. Most of the coolers required mobo removal, LoL... oh well. The old coolers can sometimes be a bitch to remove: removing mobo is not a bad solution in those instances, anyway. Yank the whole mobo incl. memory, CPU + cooler (not too difficult). I swear by clean polished copper cooler surface, and Arctic Silver. I rub just a pinch into both mating halves, then install. Attachment pressure is much greater than it used to be, so sparingly applied is usually enough compound just to fill up the microscopic gaps within the pits on each side, and not actually impede cooling. White chalky stuff and (we thought) OEM 'plasticky' pads are to be avoided - but it turns out that Intel studies showed these pads actually worked OK... but once melting seal is 'broken' the compound is no longer viable and must be removed. If people reinstalled with generic (white silicone) compound, their temps went up. If they reinstalled with premium Arctic Silver, their temps actually went down but not as much as they expected/hoped. Just ensure the cooler surface is very parallel to CPU, and lowering is perpendicular to avoid huge pressure buildup on one edge of CPU die, as mating force is increased. As I said, the clamping force is now greater and gross misalignment has caused some tears - something AMD could avoid with the potection of a big ol' CPU heat-spreader over the chip, a la Intel. But they say it cools better without, and decline to entertain warranty claims for chipped CPU edges (signs displaying warnings will be found in any busy AMD shop, because people do crack 'em, LoL :^) But it's not easy (to crack 'em) so, if you're somewhat capable and aware, and have okay eyes, don't worry... I wanna get the Titan Vanessa L-Type that won the test - now THERE's a cooler, quiet too. Let us know how you get along, L8R Edit: Duh! Obviously SocketA (must've been snappin' some caps...) LoL
Nah socket A i'm afraid... Anyway what is a guaranteed method for removing the pad/dust/mess on the CPU, and how likely is it that even by following the correct method that i could damage the CPU?
either leave the cpu in it's socket or if have a spare board with same socket put it in there so as not to bend or break any pins as that was another thread. use isopropyl alcohol to clean the top of the cpu to remove the old heatsink compound
I have been given the offer of borrowing Coolermaster thermal fluid and some branded "thermal paste removal fluid" It has been used successfully for an Athlon XP 2000+ so i assume this would get the job done in my case. What is the best way to apply it though?
Okay fair enough, but do i just simply ensure all of the visible cpu surface is covered with the stuff, and do I do the heatsink side as well?
if referring to the heatsink compound than do it on the cpu as smaller area of contact than heatsink. just put a skim coat on not a big glob!!
Lol evidently or it would ooze out the sides... for socket A and a relatively standard (well for 80mm) heatsink, can I do this in-situ (much preferred) or is it necessary to remove the motherboard?
