Hello everyone, I've been having a problem lately. I have been burning my backups to DVD+R and playing them fine in my Sony DVD player and PS2. I was able to also play them in my mother's cheap $69.95 DVD player. But when I tried to play them in my sisters DVD player or my wife's family DVD player, it doesn't read the disc. I can't figure out why. Here is my process of making a back-up: DVD43 is running when I insert disc. Rip it in file mode in DVD Decrypter Edit in DVD Shrink to an image file. Burn image using Nero 6.0 Any thoughts?
It sure is a nuisance that we don't all live in a perfect world! It's called COMPATIBILITY matey. The best thing to do is to RESEARCH media before buying. This is a very common problem that many before you have had to overcome.
Here's a good site to check burner/player & media compatibility. Just type in your model in the search area. http://www.dvdrhelp.com. Jerry
Hi ironbiter, Just a little off the path - You might want to change your formula a bit - Using DVD Decrypter all the time can cause problems - (FYI, if your DVD is multi-angled, you will lose the angle, in one case the DVD ran 2/3rds of the way through OK then switched to French for the rest of the movie. It also plays havoc with complex IFO’s like Disney stuff, which has sections out of order. The DVD’s where the size was 5.9GB but when you try to edit them using re-author, the size grows to 9.2GB.) Your DVD43 runs in the background making it appear that your disc doesn't have any encryption or region, no problems there, THEN use DVD Shrink which has a decryptor all it's own (it's really more of a decoder), then use DVD Decrypter to burn the ISO image that DVD Shrink puts out OR use Nero to burn your VIDEO_TS folder to disc. Either way is fine. The ONLY time you want to use DVD Decrypter is if DVD43 and DVD Shrink cannot rip a particular DVD. OR if you are dealing with a DVD-5 DVD and wish to use "ISO read" to rip then use "ISO write" to burn to disc, very fast, that cheers, Pete
One thing I would like to add to Scubapete's which is always very good and very helpful! I don't know what type of DVD Burner you are using but if it's new firmware will support a DVD-Rom booktype setting you could go that route as well. Basically it makes the disc think it's a pressed DVD-Rom which adds further compatibility to DVD+R discs. I know the Lite-On and NEC drives support this feature but I'm not 100% sure if other brands do or not. Most likely that will take care of it. Just visit your manufacturers website and take a look to see if they have new firmware (or if the firmware installed on the drive already supports this feature!) for the drive to support the DVD-Rom Booktype setting.
I use a Ronin DVD player the slimline vertion, cheap and Chinese Multi region. Reads all. Vobs included. And now even cheaoer.
I'm using a LG 4040B DVD Burner and Memorex & Fujifilm DVD+R's. My confusion with "comapatibility" rests in the question of playability. If a store-bought DVD (in the USA) will play in every DVD player purchased in the USA, why will burned DVD's have problems with "compatibility?"
One other thing.... I was using DVD Shrink to decrypt and re-author and DVD Decrypter to burn the ISO, but I had more problems playing those discs. They would play in my Sony DVD player, but I couldn't get them to play in any other DVD player. When I switched to the above process, it dramatically helped the playability problem but I'm still having problems with some DVD players.
(continuing on from Nephilim’s post) and the discs you burn should be of an exceptionally higher quality than those you are using currently - Memorex is a good example as media goes, figures as high as 50% coasters have been reported (One member bought a stack of 50 and got 23 good burns.), not what I would call an impressive record. 1. * Cheap media freezes, skips, stutters, pixelats, partially jams, may be rejected and lest we forget, our old standby, giving you the old just refuses to be recognized routine :-( Besides "Freezing", "skips" and pixelations, many times you’ll get a “Cyclic Redundancy error” or an "I/O error". This message can mean that your discs are scratched or dirty, it can also mean that your burner won’t accept your “cheap” media :-( Another problem which “pop’s up” is a “*Power Calibration Error”. This can stop you right in your tracks and most often is caused by, Yep, you guessed it, inexpensive media. *A “Power Calibration Error” can also be attributed to the Optical Components of a DVD Writer, though this isn’t usually the case. Trying to shut down your software and ejecting your DVD then restarting your program and re-inserting the same media recently cleaned has been known to help. Inexpensive media or even average media is great for text, Data, Spreadsheets, .Jpg and .Gif pictures and is good even for MP3 music BUT for DVD backups - BLAaaaaaT! It SUCKTH in an extremely Big-th way ! 2. A good grade media is needed for DVD reproduction ! “Branded” Ritek G04's or Branded Verbatim are what we’re looking for OR any media boasting “Advanced AZO Metal Dye”, this indicates a superior dye application, while they are sometimes a bit “pricey” they are acceptable. Prices online from Meritline.com have gotten Ritek G04 down below a dollar a disc - Question - If you make coasters out of 3 cheap or even average discs and good copies from 3 Branded Verbatim discs or 3 “Branded” Ritek G04 discs - which ones then will you say are too expensive ? The 3 “Cheapo’s with no movie backup OR , the 3 recommended discs with a perfect backup on each disc ? Bear in mind, Memorex, Fuji, Sony, TDK, Orange Pack and others are quite good for your MP3 music, picture archives, Spread sheets, Data and your text backups and archives, they just don’t work well for DVD backups. Even DataSafe G04’s made by Ritek have been reported as inferior quality and are evoking that “Oh no, I shouldn’t have gotten those.”. Remember, for DVD backups, purchasing inexpensive media or even average media is a gamble, some people win, the majority of people lose, varying amounts but, they still lose :-( Let's try the right media for the job - just buy a 5 pack of what we recommend that will settle it once and for all - Don’t cheat though, buy the EXACT media we recommended - Using good grade media can guarantee you one thing to an absolute certainty, it surely cannot hurt. cheers, Pete _X_X_X_X_X_[small] The “old man” Pete (ö¿ô) Compaq 8000, Pent 4 CPU 2.84GHz, 1GB RAM, 520GB HD. 4 Drives, JLMS DVD ROM, Nec 4X R/W ND-1300A, HP R/W 200j, AXV CD/DVD-ROM. GeForce4 Ti 4200-128MB, OS– XP, SP1[/small]
Would someone be willing to give me the exact product name for some good dvd-r's and a link to buy a 5 pack of them? I'm interested in buying some good media, but I don't want to pay 30 bucks for a 25 pack that doesn't work. As always I appreciate all help provided
Sparkyb, If you are in the USA, check sites like Meritline.com or SuperMedia. They usually sell SAMPLE packs of different brands of media packaged together. This way you can try several makes and see what works best for your system and burner. Jerry
Thanks again ScubaPete! I didn't realize that could be the case. In fact, although I saw that Ritek and Verbatim have been recommended on these boards, I thought it was just because it was an inexpensive media. I opted to buy the "more expensive" Memorex and Fujifilm thinking that it would be as good or better quality. I guess I was wrong! Are some DVD players more sensitive to sub-par media than others?
ironbiter, The price is higher but the quality is less and inconsistent. Memorex uses 3 mfgrs - What we recommend has a better dye application and in the case of the AZO better dye AND application ) Go Figure, Huh ??
ScubaPete: _Thanks for the valuable infos on DVD medias . _You mentioned poor DVD mdia may cause pixelation ! This point really confused me as I back-up a lot of DVD movies and always checked the trancoded files before burning. Pixelation, if occured, is always detected right in the .VOB files ( i.e. view with Moonlight-Elecard MPEG Video Player v2.2.2) . I have never come across a case in which .VOB files were O.K. after check-viewing then pixelations occured in burnt DVD-Rs later. And I used cheap DVD discs ( i.e. Princo 4X in 100-disc spindle ) .In my experience with DVD copying , pixelation is an issue of the trancode softwares , not the quality of DVD medias. However, I concurred with your contention that good quality DVDs for movies are a must for long-term reliability . I am shuddering at the thought that copies of my treasured DVD movies will be unviewable next year !! It's a bit late for me; So.. wait ... and see... Best regards,
zooco get yer prayer mat out, and prepare to bit down on leather!! these disks are horrible. Ive had some of them Princo's die on me after a few months. I wouldnt use them if they were giving them away.
zooco, Before coming here I would have agreed with you but pixelation has been reported on many occasions and has cleared up when a media change has been noted. These reports have dealt with DVD-5 movies where DVD Decrypter has been used in an ISO read / ISO write application where I wouldn't have expected it to occur - Go Figure ? cheers, Pete BTW, Welcome to our Happy little Group )
Hmm..I did some poking around for info on media quality on the net and ran into this post in the digitalfaq.com website: From the website: The following list is in preference order. The best discs are near the top of the list and the discs on the bottom of the list are only suitable for landfill. 1st Class Media: Almost flawless burns with 95%-100% reliability. PVC - Pioneer (-R)(-RW) MXLRG01, MXLRG02 - Maxell (-R) MCC - Mitsubishi Chemicals (-R) TDKG02 - TDK Corp (-R) TAIYOYUDEN or YUDEN - Taiyo Yuden (-R)(+R) 2nd Class Media: Decent discs, though not perfect, about 85-95% success rate. RICOHJPN - Ritek or Ricoh (+R) SONYD04 - Sony (-R) PRODISC - Prodisc Media (+RW) INFODISC - Infodisc Media (+RW) RITEKG04 - Ritek (-R) RITEKG03 - Ritek (-R) OPTODISC - Optodisc (-R) 3rd Class Media: Quality can be very questionable, about 50-80% success rate. LEADDATA or LD01 or LEDA - Lead Data (-R)(-RW) PRINCO - Princo (-R)(-RW) RITEK - Ritek (-RW) ONIDTECH - Unknown OEM (-R) 4th Class Media: Pathetic garbage media, landfill material, about 0-50% success rate. RITEKG01, RITEKG02 - Ritek (-R) PIODATA - Lead Data (-R) Unbranded PIO - Fake Pinoneer (-R) Unbranded SONY - Fake Sony (-R) Unbranded MXL - Fake MXL (-R) ACCU - Unknown OEM (-R) Longten - Unknown OEM (-R) AN31, AN32, ANWELL, AN30 - Unknown OEM (-R) OPTODISC - Optodisc (+R)(+RW) MATRIX - Unknown OEM (-R) CMC - CMC Magnetics (+R)(-R) ...the rest of the article can be read at www.digitalfaqs.com/media/dvdmedia.htm There also seems to be a majority of companies that outsourse the manufactering of their media to other companies. For example, the media I purchased (Memorex and Fujifilm) could actually be made by CMC, RICOHJPN, TAIYOYUDEN, MCC, or PRODISC. I know that this happens a lot in bulk manufactering, but it can make it confusing for the lay consumer. Is the concrete advice then to look for the words "Advanced AZO Metal Dye" on the package to ensure that the media is of quality?
Ironbiter It's an interesting article. So Ritek G04 is 2nd grade eh? mmmmmm...lets just say that I have a number of ritek g03 well over a year old, and on testing (with DVDinfopro, & nero dvd speed) they indicate NO read errors, good enough for me. Take a look at the image gallery :- http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdgallery.htm Especially the right hand column, 7th disk down, the disks he describes as "The, orange ones". He says, and i quote " Best G04 of them all, with zero problems". Now these disks are known as Ritek Landscapes and are totally notorious for "hit & miss" quality. Give the chap credit though, at the beginning of the article he does say, and I quote :- ".....but your mileage may vary, depending on the burner and how the batch of media chooses to cooperate. While some cheap media may work for you, it's a gamble that often loses" Never a truer word spoken in battle. _X_X_X_X_X_[small]On Initial Viewing My Backup Looked Terrible, But With One Eye Closed It Aint Half Bad!![/small]
