*Looking for Xplorer4 and Sammorris' Seal of approval - New Build Sub $800 (CAD) ?

Hi all, I've been reading through these pages for a couple days now. I have 500 Bucks my work can put towards a PC. I figured I could throw in a little extra.

I'm currently still running an old 2002 dusty Intel P4 2.4GHz, with ASUS P4Pe mobo, 1.5GB Ram and a crappy Nvidia GeForce Mx440 GPU.

Im looking to build something myself, but want to do it once and hopefully have it last for a while. It will be used for downloading, video conversions, some movies from time to time and more importantly running guitars through it and hopefully get ProTools set up on it. Im not hardcore into recording anymore but wouldnt mind getting back into it a little. One other option that would be nice would be to have a eSata port somewhere for my external drive which is used to store media.

On that note though, here is my list so far thanks to your posts.

Case : http://www.directcanada.com/product...HREE HUNDRED&manufacture=ANTEC#specifications = 58.99

CPU: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215 = 213.99

Mobo : http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11830BD0610&vpn=GA-P55M-UD2&manufacture=GIGABYTE = 101.44

RAM: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145260&Tpk=N82E16820145260 = 111.49

Power Supply: http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11180AC4237&vpn=CMPSU-400CX&manufacture=CORSAIR = 53.41

Video Card: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102871&Tpk=N82E16814102871 = 98.99

Sound Card: Confused about this one. I currently still have a good working Soundblaster Audigy2 Platinum EX (PCI I think). Should I re-use this card, utilize the onboard sound, or pickup a new current gen sound card? One thing I like about my soundblaster ex is it has 1/4" jacks to run my guitar stuff straight in.

So based on all that info what do you guys think?

oh - forgot a HD, dont really care to much since I have a 1.5TB external, so i guess a 300-500GB would do just fine for now.

Any quick help/feedback is GREATLY APPRECIATED!

thanks again,
sdmf

 

For once I dont have to come in and swap out half the build!

Everything looks good. On the sound card, Creative is a bit tricky. They like to cease driver support on cards simply to release a re-branded version of the card to force people to buy a whole new card to go along with there new OS. Cant hurt to try it before you go buy a new one.

As for the HDD, the better the HDD the better the performance. In todays computers the HDD is a major bottle neck, hence why SSDs are now hitting the market. Id go with a WD 1 TB Caviar Black.

 

It's always funny to see people create thread titles specifically for the attention of myself or another popular member around here.
The components you've chosen here are all excellent, and there's no issue with the components used.
I would recommend keeping the Audigy2 Platinum, as while it's an old card, it is top of the range and may stil therefore have driver support. The top of the line cards are much better for music compared to basic or gaming grade cards.
For the hard disk, something like a WD5001AALS 500GB Caviar Black would be fine, you can opt for the WD1001FALS terabyte drive if you need more space (I'd recommend it, it's better value).

 

Thanks guys that's good news!

Next couple questions:
- what do I need to get esata working so I can do faster transfers to the extrnal drive, just an esata card?
- if I wanted to try my first pc game would this gpu be more than capable?
- also with this card I would assume I might be able to run hdmi out to a projector?
- a working front USB slot would be a real treat
for me compared to what I have now, I would have this right?

Is there anything else I would need to purchase considering I already have monitor keyboard mouse etc?

Thanks again people!

 

eSATA does not require a special controller for it to be used, it can be added simply as an adapter to an existing S-ATA socket. Many modern motherboards include eSATA ports and additionally, a lot of modern cases feature eSATA ports built in that connect to a normal S-ATA port on the motherboard. The motherboard you have chosen is one such board, as it has an eSATA port built into the back of the motherboard, in yellow located beside the firewire connector.
For games it really depends what you're into. Clearly a $99 graphics card is not going to be playing the most demanding titles like Crysis Warhead and Battlefield: Bad Company 2 at high details nice and smooth, but the HD5670 can play most current games out there to a reasonable degree. If you want to be playing games with maximum graphics settings and smooth frame rates on a large monitor, you should consider upgrading it, but otherwise the HD5670 will do fine.
The HD5670 contains a native HDMI port, it can be used in exactly the same way as any other HDMI device.
Two front USB ports are standard on the Antec Three Hundred case. As long as you plug them in, you get front USB. It's that simple.

 

I wonder if for only $4 more if this would be a better card for me?

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102824

 

The HD4850 is a more powerful card than the HD5670 by quite a substantial margin. It is, however, bigger and uses much more power. That's not an issue for your PSU, but something you may want to consider.

 

Hmm, ok If i go for that card, I know you said I would be fine with my PSU I have chosen, but to be safe should I even bump the PSU up a little bit too?

Also, Im planning on going to Windows 7 for the new build. Heard good things so far about it. BUT do i have to worry about 32 vs 64 bit? This confuses me a little as im not sure if the current apps I need to use are compatible with 64 bit. In general 64 bit confuses me. Perhaps I cant even physically go to 64 bit...in 10 seconds Im about to start reading up on that...lol.

 

Bumping up the PSU isnt so much a safety thing, but it would save you money in the long run. If you buy the 400watt, then decide to upgrade a year from now, if the components you purchase max out the psu, your going to have to buy a new psu. Buying a bigger psu now is likley to last you longer into the future.

As for 32bit vs 64 bit, the most important thing you need to know is your 32 bit apps should run just fine. Win 7(XP, and Vista to) x64 are backwards compatible to to run 32 bit apps. With 32 bit you will not see your full 4GB of RAM.

64 bit performs better for having access to the extra memory. Plus it can access the memory better. 32 bit is like having a 2 lane highway to your memory. 64 bit is like having 4 lanes. Obviously driving on a 4 lane highway is going to be much easier and faster then driving on a 2 lane highway in dense traffic.

 

Awesome explanation thank you. So everything in my list is fully 64 bit capable? Meanng the only thing I need to do is get a win7x64 version and I'm good to
go?

 

That's correct, and I would recommend a 64-bit OS.

 

Hey guys, me again. So I came up with a couple small revisions to the PSU, GPU and Motherboard. I dont mean to be one of those guys that keep changing my mind, so Im going to try and limit this thread to this last change..LOL.
motherboard: Thinking about this now because for $40 bucks more, I can have USB 3.0, I do tons of USB tranfers (movies to thumbdrives etc) and would apprecieate the increased transfer rate.

http://www.directcanada.com/product...-P55A-UD3&manufacture=GIGABYTE#specifications

PSU:
Just a little beefier than the 400w, this one is the 450w.
http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11180BD9180&vpn=CMPSU-450VX&manufacture=CORSAIR

GPU: (as discussed alredy above)
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102824

HD:
http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=25350DR4749&vpn=WD6401AALS&manufacture=Western Digital WD

So I think that sums it up. Maybe order all this crap tomorrow. BUT wouldnt mind having you guys confirm the revised mobo idea before I do.

What do ya think? yay or nay?

 

All good parts. Just make sure you put the memory in the white slots (assuming you're using two sticks). I made the mistake of using the blue ones when I built my i5 today, and had a POST error I couldn't understand. I'll save you the hour of head-scratching I had trying to figure it out

 

LOL perfect. Thanks for that tip. Being the first build for me ever, I might have gotten confused at that stage. glad you pointed that out for me .

I guess I'll be ordering the parts probably tomorrow. Then I'm gonna find a 23" monitor somewhere, but only if I can find one cheap.

...kinda funny how everyones budget always seems to go up a bit from originally planned. Its easy to get carried away. Hell, if I get this for 1G, what could I get for 2 G's....and so on and so on.

 

Something I know all too well. I lack much self-control when it comes to buying hardware

 

Lol I had the same problem on my MSI mobo when I first hooked up my i7. Used the wrong dimms and it was a total headache.

 

Indeed, disappointing they don't provide better documentation about that, but never mind.

 

Hmph, it seems someone else copied me and put you guys in the thread title as well..LOL.

Anyways, I ordered everything today. Cant wait. One thing I wish I did was order an aftermarket CPU cooler. The stock one seems a little small from what I;ve seen/reviewed etc.

What are everyones thoughts on good aftermarket coolers? I;ve been eyeing these 2 today:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

any others I should be looking at (keeping the best bang for buck theory of course)

 

Intel stock CPU coolers are deliberately tiny, they do the job (amazingly), but they're not designed to be especially quiet, and won't let you overclock very far. Unless you desire quiet or overclocking, the stock cooler will do just fine, but otherwise, it's wise to invest in a good aftermarket cooler. Why the Hyper212 and Freezer 7 are good in their own right, they're really dual core CPU coolers, overclocking a quad is going to leave them rather overwhelmed, you'd be better off buying at the least, something like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608016
If not the full 120mm version, if you want to really push things.

 

Hey there, I know there was just recently another post regarding CPU cooler recommendations.

I agree with you about your recommendation, and also read good reviews. But to keep my costs down a little, I think im going to try out the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. I found it at a store nearby for $34 canadian. I read decent reviews on this one too, though not as good as the one you suggested, but hey at least this will save me 35 bucks for a case of beer

additionally i might not be overclocking too much, ie. not max, so I "think" I might be ok with the coolermaster.

Anyways, just wanted to say thanks again for your guys help. I should be receiving everything on tuesday.