Ok, this is my computer build that I just ordered. Thanks to everyone for their help here. Now I need to ask if I am forgetting anything. I already have a Dvd drive and such. Do I need to buy any special wires for what I have bought or do the parts come with wires? I am not too sure about the hard drive wires, if it even has any. Please respond back and let me know what you think of the build and what else I need.
The parts did not show up in your wish list. List out the parts that you are looking at. What will be the main use of this computer? What is your budget?
I don't know why my wishlist didn't show. So here are all the parts listed seperately. PSU-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341011 RAM-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145197 PSU Cooler-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835154001 HDD-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136178 Case/Tower-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146050 CPU-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115017 Mainboard/Motherboard-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128358 GPU-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102770 My limit is what I spent all together which was $913.81.
all your parts look good, but i would get cheaper ram and move up to the 4870. ddr2 800 will be more than enough and higher clocked memory doesn't help performance much. ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122 gpu http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102810
I think the reason those Dominators were chosen was because of the Fan that is included. The version without the fan is also $40 like the G.Skill: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145214 Either way, the $70 Dominator, or the $40 G.Skill or Dominator, they are all very good RAM. Both video cards are very good. The 4870 is faster, but you are paying $35 more for that. If I had that option when I bought my components, I would have done it, but then it was $80 cheaper to go with the HD 4850. As for your build, I have basically the same setup. The only difference is the HDD (mine is 640GB), the case series (I have Alpha Black), and I got the Blue Silencer I overclocked to 3.2 GHz and the PC is blazing fast. It tears through everything I have thrown at it so far. Amazingly, it can encode a complete movie to mpeg2 DVD settings VBR in 12 minutes and the CPU is only stressed to 40%!! If it would get 100%, we are talking under 5 minutes! I will see if I update the encoder if that will speed it up. I am using a 2005 edition, so maybe the newer versions are better utilizing multicore CPUs.
My CPU cooling....The Tuniq Tower 120 should fit in that case that I have bought easily right? I know I have to modify the "brace" for the Tuniq and I watched the video on how to. Also, is there a video or a way you can tell me how to overclock and how much I should overclock with the cooling and all I have?
I honestly think it will not fit in the case. It does not fit in my case because of the side panel fan and I think yours will have the same problem. Right now, I have the hole in the side of my case, however, I am going to install the fan on the outside of the case. I am just being lazy to get some screws and nuts for the dust shield. They make 100mm x 12mm fans which would fit, but the problem is that the fan would probably not fit on the case without making new holes on the side. Without the side fan installed, my PC is still very cool. It is about 28 degrees idle and gets to 50 degrees at load on the hottest core. Also, I think a 120mm fan will not make a big difference. Reason is that it would blow air on top of the cooler, which would do nothing for the CPU. It would get more air into the case, but it would probably just drop case temps by a degree or two. The Tuniq does a very good job of cooling the CPU. Mine is set to the minimum RPM and it cools almost as well as when the fan is on high. I don't think any Tower Cooler will fit in a mid-tower case with a side fan because they are all about the same size. If you are going to overclock, a Tower Cooler is the way to go as it will give you lower temps at a given speed and allow you to push clocks higher. For overclocking, there should be tons of videos on youtube, but I can give you settings depending on what clock speed you want. I've clocked mine as high as 3.6GHz although I leave it at 3.2. Also, I am noticing that no software I have is pushing my CPU anywhere near 100% load, so super high clocks are not needed.
Just the settings you have for 3.2ghz would be nice. Also where to go to set them. I am guessing most with BIOS? I am not sure though. I am really good with computer just never really over clocked them. I can build and such, which as most of you know is a breeze. But when it comes to overclocking, I know nothing about it. Also, thanks for letting me know I might have to modify my case abit to get that tower in there, even if it just means removing the side case fan.
Ok, I decided to ut a few minutes of effort and install the side fan so I can show you some pics in low light to show off the LED: Angle View: Sort of Front view: I have the NZXT Alpha Black case, but you can probably do the same. All I sis was install the Dust Shield to the outside using Fan screws I got from my old busted PSU. To attach the fan to the windows, I had to use washers since I used the original black Push Pin things to attach it It took less than 5 minutes to do and keeps the cool Blue look. All overclocking is done in the BIOS. You can overclock in Windows Using EasyTune6. I think ET6 does the BIOS changes as well, but you change everything in Windows. It then reboots and applies the changes. Using the BIOS gives you more control over everything. The Option you are looking for in BIOS is M.I.T. Here are my settings for 3.2GHz: Robust VGA: Leave it alone (don't know what this does) Multiplier: 8 CPU Frequency: 3200 MHz (changes automatically ---------------------- CPU Host Frequency: 400 PCI express: 100 MHz CIA2: Disabled ---------------------- DRAM Performance: Standard XMP: Disabled MCH: 400 MHz System Multiplier: 2.33B Frequency: 1066MHz Timing: set to Manual, then 5/5/5/15 Command Rate 2 ----------------------- vCore: Set it to stock (no auto) Terminate Voltage: (stock) CPU PLL: (stock) CPU Ref: (stock) ------------------------- MCH Core: (stock) MCH Ref: Stock MCH DRAM: Stock ICH I/O: Stock ICH Core: Stock ---------------------- DRAM Voltage: 2.08 for 1066MHz. Also, access your Advanced BIOS features and do the following: C1E: Disabled C2/C2E: Disabled C4: Disabled CPU Thermal: Enabled CPU EIST: Disabled Virtual something: Disabled The goal is to get the PC to load the OS. If it cannot POST, the PC will reboot. Enter the BIOS again and decide if you want to lower Clock, or raise voltage. Once you get a boot, you can test temps using Prime95. If temps are in check after 5 - 10 minutes, you can either try and get a stable clock with lower voltage, or keep it running for 6 - 24 hours to test stability. If oyu get errors, then this means that you should raise voltage or lower clock.
Thanks. I will let you know how it all works out on Monday night or Tuesday. My Case will be here friday and the rest will be here monday. After I get done building and setting it all up, then overclocking I will let you know how it went. Once again thanks alot for the help.
Ok, everything got here yesterday and it is done being put together today and such. I updated windows vista and all the drivers for video cards and such. When I install something onto the computer or do anything on the computer and I watch the Performance thing in the control panel. It shows all cores being used..I thought one was used until the next needed to kick in and help it? And was there anything I needed to change in BIOS or settings that would help me out alot besides the overclocking?
One other thing I forgot to mention was the fact that at first I was not getting static through my headphones and now I am. What could be causing this and how can I fix it? I can scroll down this page and the intensity of the static changes. Basically anything I do can cause it to change and then when I stop, the static goes back to just static.
The static could be a hardware issue with the headphones... not sure though. Maybe the copper is damaged somewhere or something wrong with the jack/connector. It could also be the amount of power going into the headphones or the resistance of the headphones vs. resistance of the output device. I am not very good with audio, but the quality of audio can change dramatically with quality hardware, but it is important to match the quality. Cheap speakers on a $5000 stereo will yield crap sound, and visa versa. As for BIOS settings, not really anything that will increase speed without overclocking. If you are running stock, you do not need to change anything, unless the multiplier is incorrectly set. To make sure, enter the BIOS and look at M.I.T. Make sure that the multiplier is 9x and not 8x. If it is 9, then you are fine. If it is 8, then change it to 9 , save and exit. Your CPU will run with speed step. What this means is that it will run at 6x multiplier with lower voltage when idle, and 9x when at load. This is to save energy. It will not affect performance. What you described with the cores working only if needed, is how AMD Quad Cores work. Rather than all 4 cores working at 10%, one core will work at 40% and the 3 other cores will be idle at lower voltage and clock speeds. This saves more energy for normal PC use. The C2Q use all 4 cores when it can. For software that can only use 1 core, it will use 1 core, but all of them will clock to full speed. I saw how a Turion works and it will load at different clock speeds depending on the load. So, the RM-70 for example, is 2GHz and will run 500MHz at idle. When there is a light load, it will run at 1000MHz and if there is a heavy load, at 2000MHz. Anyway, seeing the CPU work all 4 cores is normal. Sometimes even single thread software will utilize the other cores, but just very little (maybe 5%).
Jaguar I need your help. I tried overclocking but I believe I miss understood the settings. Could you give me more detailed wording for each thing I am changing? Making it so when I look in BIOS I see exactly what is written? Cause it seemed like a few things were missing between yours and mine and as far as I know we have same bios and everything.
I'll provide pics of what I did step by step. If you need more help, let me know. Also, you are not guaranteed to be able to boot with those settings. Overclock varies chip by chip. Follow them in order. The way it goes, a setting is highlighted and then you press 'enter' to tweak it. I deleted a ton of pics cause some the quality was horrid (completely blurred to where you cannot make out what the settings was). This happened in the Voltage settings when you see DRAM. Basically, I only changed Vcore, MCH, and ICH. Everything else, I set to whatever the normal value is. The final pic (really a Photoshop) shows what my voltage settings are when I finished everything. After the DRAM voltage, it jumps straight to the Advanced BIOS section. After you set DRAM, press 'esc' to go back to the BIOS main menu. Then select the Advanced BIOS features. Again, the final voltage settings are the final pic in the zip package. When you get a boot, use Prime95 to test the stability. I used Blend which causes errors faster. Also run CoreTemp to monitor Core Temps. If you see temps go beyond 60 degrees, you may have to lower the clock or Vcore. Let Prime95 run for at least 6 hours. If it has no errors, your overclock is good. If you get an error, stop the test and change your settings. You will either need more voltage or lower clock. The longer you run Prime95, the better the overclock. Many overclockers run it for 24 hours. Don't try to boot the first time with low vCore. It took me a while to get my vCore settings and it is a lot of trial and error. Also, the VID (voltage ID or stock vCore) on my chip is 1.31250V. Yours may be different. For your first boot, try to boot with whatever your stock vCore value is. Make sure you are the one that sets it. Don't leave any voltage settings at "Auto". When setting vCore, try to keep it in the safe range. The absolute range is 0.85v - 1.5v, but the safe range is 1.10v - 1.36v. OK, pics finished uploading, so enjoy! Let me know if you have questions: BIOS Pics
Thanks alot. This is alot more clear to me. I will go through them and write it all down then do it. I will respond back and let you know how it went.
