Well, right now i'm just surfing around online, and my hard drive monitor tells me that it's at 33 degrees Celsius. That sounds a little warm to me. Also, my athlon 2600 (running at 2.133 GHz, which seems faster than it should be)reads about 52 degrees from the BIOS. This was originally an HP pavillion which i migrated into a new case, and i know it was running a good 10 C hotter in the old case w/o my new fans. I don't know any other temperatures, but my case never really feels warm. Y'all think i may have a problem?
Those temps sound OK Auslander. 33C is typical for HD, will get much hotter (40C+) with inadequate cooling. Athlon XP 2600+ runs 166 x 12.5 = 2.08Ghz I believe. Use CPU-Z to ID exactly what you have. 52C is excellent, nice & cool, even if it goes up a bit under heavy use that's OK. L8R
o0o...according to CPU-Z, i'm running Thoroughbred 2600+ (hmmm....thought they ran realllllly hot) at 133 X 16. this program's pretty cool, OGS. I finally know what type of motherboard i have! lol, HP didn't give me any paperwork!
Ahhh, there you go An XP2000+ @ 133 x 12.5 will come up XP2600+ if it is run @ 166 FSB, but you have 'the real thing'. Generally the higher-multiplier CPUs will generate the big heat; there are other factors too of course... That CPU is Thoroughbred B, and fairly unusual - must be OEM. It's at the top of the 133FSB range. Cannot buy 133 Athlons anymore, they start @ 166FSB now, so your Pavillion & you will be together 'till the end' ;-) LoL Enjoy
hehe...hopefully not too much longer. i'm gonna put this mobo/processor in my dad's computer later on, and put an athlon 64 setup in here. oh, and according to Motherboard Monitor 5, my cpu is idling around 60 degrees C, and right now it's at 61 C. isn't that a kinda warm? thanks for your replies, OGS.
Yeah, 61-62C is warm ;-( I thought you said 52C? Are you getting different numbers from BIOS and MBM? You need to re/re the CPU cooler maybe... (mostly folks that transplant a mobo/CPU don't take that setup apart; I mean, why would you?) I use inexpensive coolers with some weight and some copper in them, they don't need to be TOO heavy (introduces new problems) but pay careful attention to the mating surfaces. I'm always coming across old coolers with pooched fans, and when disassembled there is often white chalky powdery stuff that used to be heatsink-compound, and often stuff like tinfoil in there, or (the worst) that plastic goop that came on the heatsink when it was new. That stuff doesn't work very well, and will not work at all anymore once the cooler is removed from CPU, because when new it 'melts' into place and cannot (by design) be re-used. Anyway, a good (or even average) cooler, cleaned up and mated with Arctic Silver, will make a large difference. I am fond of replacing high-rpm 60mm cooler fans with slower 80mm fans that are quieter and move more air. There is an inexpensive fan adapter (like a little funnel) to do this, assuming the physical space is available for the assembly. Yes Athlon64 - I can get a 2800 CPU for $199 Canadian (around 80 Pounds Sterling), nice price for all that power L8R
yeah, it's about 50 at startup, but quickly heats up to about 57-58..under some use or during the hottest part of the day if it's been running all morning (like today) it'll get up to about 62. i think it may be time for a new heatsink.
My current specs (Idled for 90 minutes - same temp as idle for however many hours) Mobo 39, CPU 57, HDD 39. Im told theres no problem however im also told that i have a really bad thermal pad... More trouble...
That's not too bad sammorris, thing is your CPU will probably shoot up to 65C under stress... OK temp but IMO 70C is too high, so you're runnin' safe but warm, y'know? You could have problems if no A/C and your room temp goes up to 30C or whatever - then you'll see the big temp numbers, if workin' it hard My important point was, it's not a new cooler so much as carefully mating the cooler you have now. I have seen CPU temps 10C lower, just by re/re-ing the same cooler with Arctic Silver! If you then improve the fans (more air, less noise) and install round cables, you could get another -5C So then, you'd be topping out at about where you're idling right now. Most people don't need the latest high-tech 800gram heatpipe 6000rpm 50dB CPU cooler, if they make their present setup work properly with careful cleaning and a 10 buck tube of Arctic Silver. (You will get lots of compound, to bring your buddies' CPUs down 10C too Make 'em buy their own round cables though, LoL Regards
My worry is that i have a large heatsink and fast (consequently noisy) chipfan, plus i also have two casefans... My record is 76.5C, at that point Hmonitor automatically shut it down anyway... You have to admit with that (room temp at the time was 28C - no a/c) i have cause for concern.
There you go, see - you're the perfect example. With a big cooler, energetic fan (and two casefans) you are not getting the heat transfer off the CPU die, that you should be getting. Take it apart, clean it up really well (I use SOS and then SolvoAutosol, a type of automotive polish for metal, then alcohol) and reassemble with Arctic Silver. I bet you will lose some temp for sure L8R
Given my luck with computers, the cpu wont work after that. It sonds stupid to say but in my 6 month old computer, only 5 of the 16 major components work properly... My fault for buying a time. I feel like such an idiot for being made a fool of.
I don't follow...? Trust me (among other things I am a PC Technician) the CPU doesn't really get handled. You just have to take off your computer's cover. Bring the vacuum; the little pointy attachment was made for computers. The insides must be vacuumed maybe once a year. Remove the whole CPU cooler/fan assembly. If AMD it's probably the spring-clip thing, you need a smallish blade straight screwdriver with a long handle. The memory chip(s) must be removed on some PCs to remove the CPU cooler safely (safe for the memory chips, LoL) On the very most intelligent mobo designs, graphics board must be removed to remove memory chip(s). Your CPU will be exposed. Most of the surface preparation is performed on the bottom of the cooler. Let us know whether you get gluey plastic stuff, white chalky stuff, tinfoil or ? Clean it until it is very clean & smooth, as discussed. Hot water is yer pal (better remove fan first, LoL) Polish it. The CPU half of the mating operation is delicate. Whenever you are inside your case, even just vacuuming around your power supply, you need to be aware of static electricity. Grounding-straps are great, but in residential you probably need a 50' strap to reach a copper water supply pipe to ground... So just be aware, touch the metal case with both hands before reaching inside. Don't fluff the cat or whatever when you're inside the PC, common-sense stuff So touch the metal case with one hand, and clean the CPU with the other. Just worry about the little rectangle in the centre, make sure there are no little chunks of whatever stuck to it. I use a little linen cloth, with a spot damp with lighter fluid, if there is gluey stuff on the CPU. Don't put liquid on the CPU. The CPU is fine don't worry, it's still inserted in the motherboard and most of your work is to be found on the cooler ;-) Get your Artic Silver and put a little blob on the cooler bottom, right where it needs to be. Clean up the tip of the Silver tube on the CPU before you put the cap back on. Rub it in a bit. You will have Toxic Silver Finger; wash your hands after you replace the cooler assembly. There you go, not so tough. I'll give you 5C for vacuuming the case, PS and all the fans, and optimizing cabling for airflow. The CPU fan is more than vacuumed, it's cleaned with a dry toothbrush or replaced. 5C there and another 10C from the Arctic Silver job. I'm predicting a 5C drop in case temperature and up to 15C CPU temperature. When you shutdown and restart the next day, then will you realize the lowest temperatures. Note: if you release the springclip and the cooler won't come off, be gentle. Don't lift up at all or even rock side-to-side. Rotate slightly CW and CCW as seen from above, carefully. If you release the springclip and yank the cooler, the CPU might come out, stuck to the bottom of the cooler. This is to be avoided Never fear, we'll get your PC running 100% -or better!
