Hi, i just wondered what one of these dvd re-writers would you recommend, please don't recommend any samsung products. Would one with out light scribe be more reliable, basically is there less to go wrong, thanks. http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/-/667/87...Software-Black/Product.html?searchtype=genre# http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/59852...Internal+IDE+DVDRW+Lightscribe&searchsource=0
Neither one. Save yourself some grief and spend just a little more for this Liteon: http://www.amazon.com/Lite-Layer-DVD-RW-All-Write-DH-20A4P-08/dp/tech-data/B000XSEB5E/ref=de_a_smtd
Thanks for the reply, is this the same model, http://www.play.com/Product.aspx?r=PCSH&title=3509936&source=9593
rogue glancing around the website you are using I would consider the Pioneer 116D or the LG 20x burners. Of course the Lite-Ons are good and I would go with the IHAS120 if you have SATA connections available. I have the 20A4P and it's a good burner so no worries there really. If you can swing it and don't mind messing with patched f/w then the Pioneer would be the choice that I would make. ....gm add: LG GH20NS15 (SATA) LG GH20NS10 (SATA) Optiarc (Sony/NEC) AD-7200A Pioneer 116D just remember that you need SATA connections if you're buy a SATA burner. You can use a PCI SATA adapter card but I like to use main mobo connections for burners personally. good luck with your choices.
Hi, and thanks for your advice, i liked the pioneer because of these features: Disc-Resonance Stabiliser technology Ultra Dynamic Resonance Absorber Performance Adjusting Firmware Buffer Under Run protection But a bit worried about: "If you can swing it and don't mind messing with patched f/w then the Pioneer would be the choice that I would make." are these firmware updates safe and easy to obtain and would i need them to make the drive better. and the Lite-On for these features: SMART-WRITE SMART-BURN SMART-X None of the LG's mention anything about there features, is that a good thing, being more basic but reliable i mean, i also looked at the Optiarc AD-7200A-0B which is more expensive so i guess better quality? Speed isn't my prime concern, just a good reliable drive, i believe that all these super fast burners are what cause many of them to fail. PS, are 80 wire IDE hard drive cables basically the same as the one's used for dvd drives, can i use the rounded IDE cables with a dvd drive etc, need to pick a quality cable as well, thanks for your time.
The rounded IDE cables are fine. Pick one that looks good and see what happens. I don't have a favorite cable company. On functionality and ease of updating f/w the Lite-On is a good choice. They normally make good burners and they scan too. Nice feature btw. Both the Optiarc AD-7200A and Pioneer 116D require (to me they do) patched f/w to make the drive better. Of the three drives it's a toss up for me with the Optiarc and Pioneer. Ok.. let's ask this. What are your needs from the drive? You've said that speed is NOT an issue. What about the media you want to use, DVD-R or DVD+R? Booktype/bitset of course. A little more info if you please. Oh and I don't like to pick a drive for someone. If you want me to do that then the Optiarc would be the choice. Easy to find f/w and easy to do as well. It's a good burner too. ....gm
I appreciate the help, it's good to have someone with more experience with different brands to help point you in the right direction. Mostly it will be used for dvd burning, and data back up including pictures, i use DVD+R Advanced AZO+ 4.7GB media, mainly because thats what i picked when i first started out in dvd authoring. Book type is normally always automatic with my nero software, dvd rom for dvd, not sure about bitset?, about speed, i don't understand why it's such a big deal, i never burn at those speeds to avoid write errors etc, never over x4 to x8 for dvd or x12 for cd's. I'm not sure what the benefits of DVD+R over DVD-R are but i've had no trouble with DVD+R Verbatims so far, except the quality has changed since the movement of there production plants, but thats another story. It's ok i will be picking one today, it's a case of shall i get the cheaper one, then if it fails it not to expensive to replace, i've found to my expense that buying retail versions with the extra 2 year cover is just not worth it, the hassle and expense of an RMA return, there's so many little loop holes in the warranties that you might as well buy a new drive, thats why i'd go for OEM now.
