Doesn't anyone use the guides before posting "how-to" questions?

Hey im having trouble burning dvds now at first it was working but now its not. After i finish with shrink i burn it with dvd decrypter and i keep getting the same error : I/O Error!

Device: [1:1:0] Sony DVD RW DRU-530A 2.1g (F (ATA)

ScsiStatus:0x02
Interpretation: Check Condition

CDB: 2A 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 20 00
Interpretation: Write (10)- Sectors: 32-63

Sense Area: 70 00 05 00 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00 24 00 00 00 00 00
Interpretation: Invalid Field in CDB

I think its my dvd's they are imation dvd-r but everytime i use a blank dvd the error pulls up CAN U PLEASE HELP ME.

 

How are you using shrink/decrypter? Are you letting shrink auto burn with decrypter or are you writing to the HDD 1st and then using those files in shrink to burn?

I don't know if it's your media per se, but you are using crappy media and it needs to be changed whether it solves your problem or not.

I can't stress how important quality media is in DVD backup. I can't count the people whose problems I have solved just by changing their media.

It's not just a quality issue as was the mindset in CD burning, or VHS, etc. It is the fact of a burn actually playing or playing properly. Bad or inconsistent media causes jumping, skipping, freezing, and not playing at all.

I mention inconsistent because a lot of media will use different manufacturers and thus different batches will vary in quality even though you're buying the same brand. By using quality media you also eliminate media as a possibility when you do encounter a problem with burning DVD's.

Quality media doesn't mean expensive either. You can get Branded Riteks +R or -R for under .50 each w/free shipping. ALWAYS buy BRANDED media so you know what you are getting.

I would also suggest getting a little free app called dvdinfopro. Among it's many uses, it will analyze your media. I keep it on my desktop for easy access because it has so many useful features.

Here is a good reputable company with an excellent return policy and great prices for DVD media:

http://www.meritline.com/ritek-dvd-blank-media.html

 

To round out your choices,

Besides Mertline which the "Big" guy gave you,

Try The Supermediastore.com -

http://www.supermediastore.com/media1.html

And,

Newegg.com

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-132-344&depa=0

All 3 give you great prices, fast delivery and a good return policy should you have any trouble with your purchase.

Thinking about buying Verbatim discs ? We feel that they are among the best in the industry, consider the fact that they offer a lifetime warrantee on all of their discs over and above any return policy that the place where you purchased them from offers. How can you possibly beat that ?

I hope that will help you in your next DVD Disc purchase ~

Pete

 

Once again, thanx a great deal big orange for your help. I am going to try to clean the disc with warm water or so to see if it's going to make a difference. I try encoding to my software with both shrink and encrypter but it keep failing constantly. It looks very bad indeed. With decrypter it always seem to stop around 90 percent and give me the following message:

W 21:51:48 Failed to read Sector 1643872 - No Seek Complete

By the way, I check the media code and this person seem to use LONGTEN 001; I was wondering if you guys heard of this brand of disc before. All the discs I use are either Ridata or Ricojp. Thanks again guys for the help.

 

thietlong,

I tried to find that brand and it doesn't show up. anywhere - that means that someone bought some discs and put their own name on it. Not something that's does with any quality media - Stay with RiData. The same goes for the other brand of discs you're using, Ricojp (unless you meant RICOH, that's good too).

I would try dialing back the DVD Target size to around 4360MB (4.36GB) so tht you're not writing to the very edge of the disc where the dye is uneven OR non-exisitent..

In today's disc market, watch out for pirate media, there's a lot of that around

Cheers,

Pete

 

Thanks again Pete for the quick reply. Yeah, I am little iffy about the quality of these discs myself. Funny part is when I throw it in my cheap Apex dvd player it played them perfectly. As far as myself is concerned, I stick with Ridata and RICOH, actually got like 250 of them or so during this last crazy sale at OD which should last me a lifetime unless I really went crazy with renting movies or so...lol. The weird part is when I run a media test on these dvds with dvdinfopro, it gives me some weird media id I never heard off before...I hope it's not those fake TY or so. Anyhow, thanks again for all the help Pete and Big Orange. Also this person was insisting that Pioneer is the best dvd burner out there...What you guys think about that? I am pretty sure there's a lot of NEC supporters out there that have something to say about this...lol. Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

@thietlong,

I have an older NEC 1300A that gave me a bit "O" trouble as it wouldn't handle -R media when it was touted as a dual format burner. Other than that, it worked just fine.

As far as the Pioneer, I have a 109 16X, DL burner and it works just fine. I'm satisfied with it and will recommend it to all.

As for the no-name media, it's not just the burning, it's a memory issue -

long will your discs last ? You may not wish to read on . . . .

FAIR WARNING. . . Using that "Cheap" quality media, your backups might not last all that long -

One thing I haven't addressed is the life of a backup made on an "el cheapo" disc. We all know that data, music and video backups on CD's and DVD's will last forever, well, if not forever for at least 100 yrs or so - That's what we've read and I believed and that's why we backup our treasures to disc, so that they'll be safe. "BLAaaaT" (the bone chilling sound of an emergency air horn), Wrong, Dead Wrong ! Don't throw the originals away, you may very well need them. Your video camera tapes and family picture CD's and DVD's, may not be there the next time you want to look at them. "Point of fact," inferior discs have a tendency to "Break down]" in time. In a very short time, we're talking disc can breakdown in less than a single year, in as little as 6 to 8 months.

This article was written about CD discs but DVD discs are exactly the same. I was miss-informed and this opened my eyes. Perhaps you'll find it as important as I did.

Independent Portfolio Content

Ever decreasing circles
Ever decreasing circles

You know those CD-R's and DVD-R's that you've trusted your most precious memories to? They could be little more use than coasters after just two years. Michael Pollitt investigates
21 April 2004 Are we putting too much faith in the ubiquitous "recordable CD", or CD-R? It is undeniably one of the most useful means of storage around, offering an inexpensive way to save digital photographs, music and files and costing less than 50 pence per disc. If you check the claims made by some manufacturers of popular CD-R brands, you will see that some make bold claims indeed. Typical boasts include: "100-years archival life", "guaranteed archival lifespan of more than 100 years" and "one million read cycles". One company even says data can be stored "swiftly and permanently", leaving you free to bequeath those backups of your letter to the electricity company to your great-great-grandchildren. But an investigation by a Dutch personal computer magazine, PC Active, has shown that some CD-R's are unreadable in as little as two years, because the dyes in the CD's recording layer fade. These dyes replace the aluminum "pits" of a music CD or CD-Rom, and the laser uses that layer to distinguish 0s from 1s. When the CD is written, the writing laser "burns" the dye, which becomes dark, to represent a "1" while a "0" will be left blank so that if the dye fades, there's no difference; it's just a long string of nothing to the playback laser. So have you already lost those irreplaceable pictures you committed to the silver disc? PC Active suggests we should forget CD-R's as a durable medium, after its own testing found some with unreadable data after just two years. "Though they looked fine from the outside, they turned out to be completely useless," wrote the technical editor Jeroen Horlings, who had tested 30 brands in 2001, left them in a dark cupboard for two years and then re-tested them in August 2003. Of the brands tested, 10 per cent showed ageing problems. And it wasn't just Horlings. After seeing the results, shocked readers contacted the magazine with their experiences. Recordable DVD's are not off the hook either. The "dye chemicals" in write-once DVDs are similar to CD-R, though recording density and disk construction differ. "We're in the process of testing DVDs and we're sure that the same problems will occur," said Horlings, who plans to publish his findings soon. Gordon Stevenson, the managing director of Vogon International - a company specializing in data recovery - is familiar with these shortcomings thanks to the experiences of his customers, one of whom commissioned Vogon to retrieve pictures of his second honeymoon from a failed six-month-old CD-R. "The dye layer was fading," Stevenson says, "but we were able to recover most of the disk. But these claims [of a 100-year archival life] are unhelpful and misleading. If you're spending 20p on something, you probably don't expect it to last 100 years," he says. In the wrong conditions, such as sunlight, humidity and upper surface damage, your CD-R will slowly turn into a coaster. "CD-R's should never be left lying in sunlight as there's an element of light sensitivity, certainly in the poor quality media," says Stevenson. "I wouldn't rely on CD-R's for long-term storage unless you're prepared to deal with them as recommended. "Such views are echoed by the National Archives at Kew. "Generally speaking, we don't recommend CD-R's for long-term storage," says Jeffrey Darlington, a project manager at the Archives' Digital Preservation Department. "We don't regard CD-R's as an archival medium. Most of the CD-R's on the market are not of archival quality." Instead of CD-R's, therefore, the National Archives tend to use magnetic tape rated for a 30-year life. Also, they are careful to copy, check and re-copy to avoid losing information and this is also a useful strategy for CD-R's. "If you keep doing that so the CD-R is never more than physically three to five years old, you'll be safe enough. A hundred years sounds pretty unlikely," says Darlington. Not all optical media is vulnerable. The rewritable variants (RW) use metallic materials that change the phase of the light, rather than light-sensitive dyes. Commercial magneto-optical and ultra-density optical systems are different too. Stewart Vane-Tempest, the optical product director at Plasmon, the archival specialists, has first-hand experience of unreadable CD-R media. "Some dyes are very robust, but others not," Vane-Tempest says. "The one thing they have in common is susceptibility to environmental conditions. I do a lot of digital photography and pay top price for media. If I have anything important, I generally make a couple of copies. I've not used CD-R's for long-term archiving. "Vane-Tempest also offers a tip. Blank CD-R disks have a code that your CD writer reads to find the best writing strategy. If this isn't in the CD-writer's inbuilt software (its "firmware"), the default may be a poor compromise. Vane-Tempest says that some "less scrupulous" Far East companies have been using other people's codes, with deficient results. However, there is a way around this, which is to find out which brands suit your writer and ensure the firmware is up to date. While such matchmaking is useful, there's no way to assess CD-R longevity at home. All you can do is check periodically. As for whether manufacturers are guilty of using finger-in-the-air methods, Kevin Jefcoate, the marketing and product management director at Verbatim, says: "It's a bit more than guesswork because there's a lot of scientific evidence to back it up. "The answer, Jefcoate says, is to use a climate chamber to accelerate the ageing of the organic dye. Using a relationship between chemical reaction rate and temperature, 100-year lifetimes may be argued for normal conditions. Jefcoate adds that he has never known users to complain of age-related failures? "We haven't had anyone complain that, after three to five years, it hasn't worked." It's easy to blame budget CD-R's when things go wrong. Novatech's purchasing and product manager, Kriss Pomroy, suggests users buy a small quantity for testing first. The PC builder sells unbranded CD-R's sourced from a Far East distributor that buys over-production from well-known factories. Are we saving pennies and taking risks? "No," says Pomroy, "You can get problematic batches, but that's as true with branded media." The company now sells two-and-a-half times more unbranded write-once DVDs than CD-R's. The world's No 1 supplier of CD-R's, Imation, talks of "saving precious digital photo memories" - exactly what many people think they're doing. Semar Majid, its technical marketing executive, hasn't heard of any ageing problems. "Optical media should last between 30 and 200 years," he says, "but it's dependent on storage conditions and how you handle it." He suggests transferring important photos to DVD, and keeping on moving to new formats. Another big maker, TDK, takes a cautious view with DVDs, claiming only a 70-year lifespan. "This does not mean that DVD is more fragile or unstable in time compared to CD-R; this is only because of the shorter experience that we have in manufacturing and testing this relatively young technology," says the TDK product manager Hartmut Kulessa. There have been no complaints about ageing failures. As the oldest CD-R is barely a teenager, there are no definitive answers either. But perhaps the last word belongs to Jeroen Horlings at PC Active. "We see a lot of manufacturers and they think that quantity is more important than quality," he says. "The problem will remain." For more info on CD-R's and dyes: www.burnworld.com/cdr/primer/whatis.htm; www.xdr2.com/CDR-Info/Dye.htm


My personal observations on this subject -

I have had about 40 backups that have refused to play after being stored for a year or more. I test all of my backups when they are burnt to be very sure that there are no problems. "In the Golden, Olden times," before I knew any better, the Memorex, Maxell's and professional "Store Brand" discs (and any thing that was on sale) was what used before I switched to Ritek, RICOH and Verbatim (Mitsubishi Chemical Corp.).

It is the poor quality stuff that I have been experiencing my trouble with. I noticed that backup DVD's I had, refused to play in my standalone player and on my PC. VOB files wouldn't play either and other discs that I backed up about the same time would "Freeze" part way through the movie. After switching to Verbatim and Ritek's, mostly the Ritek's because the price was right, I've not had 1 go "Flat" in over 1 ½ years. I still have some backups about 90 of them done on the "cheap stuff" and, as time wears on I lose a few more as I attempt to check them. I say to you, why did a backup play fine the end of "02"and "03" then "fail" in "04 ?? Some that were done in "03" never made it till "04" (it took me some time to learn, lol) Most of my backups from around March of "03" were done on the "good Stuff" and they still work fine today - not a single failure ! What about now ? Well, 2005 is the year, I'll wait no longer, before this year is through I'm going to test the rest and most likely re-record them onto a decent grade of media. It's been too long and I don't want to run the risk that I've lost an original OR one has been borrowed and never returned (like that's never happened, Huh ?). I want my discs back and 005 is the year -
Don't go through what I did, protect your investment.

As always, you have a choice -

Cheers,

Pete

 

ScubaPete

Long block of text there Pete (AfterDawn Addict indeed) but as usual the 'grasshopper' learned many things. I intend passing this info to DVD friends & colleagues in college.

Thanks for taking the time to source & evaluate this material.

'Best is the enemy of better'

Joeymac

 

Pete and BigOrange,

Sorry guys but I ran into another problem recently. I received the following message when I try to read a dvd using shrink :

DVD Shrink encoutered an error and cannot continue.
Failed to read file "E:\"
The parameter is incorrect.

Any information regarding this error would greatly be appreciated. Thanks again you guys for leading me out of the newbie forest.

Thietlong

 

A quick update. I also run into some new problems regarding the burning process. For some reason this problem only occurred recently when I made the upgrade to the dvd decrypter 3.5 3.0 version recently released. Dvd shrink decode the movie just fine but for some reason when sent to dvd decrypter, I get the following message:

W 01:15:57 Failed to Write Sectors 0 - 31 - The semaphore timeout period has expired.
W 01:15:57 Retrying (1 of 20)...
W 01:15:57 Retry Failed - Power On, Reset, or Bus Device Reset Occurred
W 01:15:57 Retrying (2 of 20)...
W 01:15:58 Retry Failed - The semaphore timeout period has expired.
W 01:15:58 Retrying (3 of 20)...
W 01:15:59 Retry Failed - The semaphore timeout period has expired.
W 01:15:59 Retrying (4 of 20)...
I 01:16:00 Writing LeadIn...
W 01:16:14 Failed to Write Sectors 832 - 863 - No Seek Complete
W 01:16:14 Retrying (1 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (2 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (3 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (4 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (5 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (6 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (7 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (8 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (9 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (10 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (11 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (12 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (13 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (14 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (15 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (16 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (17 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (18 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (19 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed - Write Error
W 01:16:14 Retrying (20 of 20)...
W 01:16:14 Retry Failed! - Write Error
E 01:28:27 Failed to Write Sectors 832 - 863 - No Seek Complete
I 01:28:27 Synchronising Cache...
E 01:28:27 Failed to Write Image!
E 01:28:27 Operation Failed! - Duration: 00:12:56

This is the first time I saw this since with the previous version of decrypter I never run into this problem. Once again thank you for all the help Pete and Orange.

Thietlong

 

Thietlong,

When you receive this type of message AND the retrys continue, it simply means that your driver has lost communication with the rest of your PC. There are a couple of solutions to this problem ~

1. When you are dealing with burners, make sure something isn't trying to "control" the drive. In your case, check DVD Decrypter - Tools - Settings - ISO Write Mode - "un-check", Lock Volume - Exclusive Access.

2. Check your ASPI layer to ensure it's working. The operative word here is "working".

ASPI Checker.
Ascertains your ASPI layer's presence and operation status

http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/su...nguage=English+US&filekey=aspichk.exe&sess=no

3. Make sure your Firmware is up-to-date ~

To check firmware, at the bottom of the page look for "What's my firmware? - Try this little tool I found," Download this tool and check out your firmware. There are also some firmware updates at this site.

http://flashman.rpc-1.com/

Finally, we need to check your DMA. "Ooohh, no you're not ! Only my husband or my Doctor checks my "D", "M" . . whatever . . ." No, no, it's OK, DMA stands for "Direct Memory Access" transfer mode OR as we say in the computer field, it's a really, fast way to move stuff. Many PC's today are using UDMA or "Ultra Direct Memory Access transfer mode, or as we like to call it, a really super-duper fast way to move stuff as opposed to the PIO mode. The PIO or Programmed I/O mode, is a technique whereby the system CPU and support hardware directly control the transfer of data between the system and the hard disk since shortly after the beginning of PC's up until the mid-1990's. So we want DMA (fast) more than we PIO (slow).

4. Let's check your Drive's transfer mode. It should be DMA-4, not PIO.
Windows XP downgrades the Ultra DMA transfer mode after receiving six CRC errors and drops it down to the much slower PIO mode.

To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager
1. Go to "My Computer, ""System Tools," "View System Information," then System Properties, "Hardware," Then Open Device Manager
2. Double-click IDE ATA//ATAPI Controllers to display the list of controllers and channels.
3. Right-click the icon for the channel to which your burner is connected and select Properties. Now click the Advanced Settings tab.
4. In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if available if the current setting says, "PIO Only."
If the drop-down box already says, "DMA if Available" but the current transfer mode is PIO, then the user must "toggle" the settings. That is, change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and click "OK".
Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to "DMA if available".

OPTION: Right-click the burner and select "Uninstall" and then "OK" all prompts until the PC reboots. Upon rebooting, the PC should "find" your burner and reinstall it setting it by "Default" to DMA.

Lastly, when did you last defrag your Hard Drive (HD) ? If you have to stop and think about the last time you did it, then it's way, way overdue. Here we go, (Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, Disk Defragmenter. When it opens, choose your HD, analyses it to see where we stand then if you need it (you probably will) choose Defragment.).

After you finish doing it now you might want to think about having "Scheduled Tasks" in your Control Panel do it for you on a daily basis.

A fragmented HD not only drastically slows down your system but it can cause all number of things to happen inside your PC, a messed up burn being one of them.

Once we've done that, our DVD burner should operate at peak efficiency )

Cheers,

Pete

Now let's see if everything will work together the way we want it to, OK ?

Give it a test run and let us know how you make out -

 

Hi Pete,

Thanks again for the help. Here's a quick update. I did step 1 and 3 already. I recently got the updated stock firmware just released so it shouldn't be a problem. I haven't try step 2 yet. As far as step 4 is concerned, I was wondering if this only pertain to internal burner or is it also work for the external one since I use an enclosure for mine and it pretty much work as an external burner.

"Right-click the icon for the channel to which your burner is connected and select Properties"

I was refering to the above message as to how would you tell which channel is connected to the burner. Thanks again Pete for all the help and guidance.

Thietlong

 

Hi Pete,

Quick Update:

I try step 2 and it states everything is fine:

ASPI is properly installed and fully operational

I guess option 3 is the only one left to be further examining. Thanks once more Pete.

Thietlong

 

thietlong,

Since we're dealing with an external burner forget about DMA as it doesn't apply to an external drive.

Did you adjust the settings in DVDD as listed in # 1. ?

There could be other apps that are locking your drive too - Packet writing things i.e. Roxio proggys OR Nero's InCD. We need to be looking for these too.

If you have Nero's InCD, turn it off in Msconfig and reboot your system to have it take effect.

Let me know how you do,

Pete

 

Thanks Pete for the quick response. I did follow through on step 1 as you have mentioned. I also forgot to state that I have diskeeper pro running on "set it and forget it" mode, so whenever my hard drive is in need of defragmenting, it will automatically do it for me. I was wondering about Nero's InCD. I open msconfig, but I didn't see this program listed on there. I do have the complete Nero Suite software and I was wondering if there 's any particular name in "startup" or "services" that I need to look for in regard to this particular program. Thanks again for all the help Pete.

Thietlong

 

thietlong,

In startup, move the "Location" tab to the right, so that you can see the proggy's adresses -

Uncheck all "Nero" programs. Double-check your "Task Manager" to re-check yourself and you'll be OK -

Pete

 

hi i just got a mod chip for my xbox but dont know how to burn games can someone please help me out

 

jonbonbon,

You need to take this to the games forums but here goes: Create a folder on your HD .Open decrypter and check ISO read mode. Then rip the disc to your HD to the folder you created reading at 1x. Then check ISO write mode and browse to the folder picking the MDS file you just created with decrypter. Pick your DVD burner. Burn to disc using decrypter writing at only 1x(this is very important!) DONE :>)

 

Hi there everyone PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
Ive just joined and im really a newbie. I need some help. I can copy dvd movies but what i need to know is....................

Can someone PLEASE HELP me and tell me how do you burn dvd movies from the internet to your dvd. Im using Nero 6 at the moment.PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

kiwigirl,

Those files must be converted to DVD compliant files before they can be burned to DVD. Since you have Nero use NeroVision Express 3.(NVE3)

It will allow you you to convert the files(It also converts faster than most of the other file conversion apps), add more than one file, create a custom menu for your compilation so you can navigate and go to any file you wish, set chapters, compress, and burn to DVD all in one app.

It even has a software remote control with which to preview your work and make sure it works and allows you to make any changes you wish before you burn to disc.

It comes in the Nero Ultra 6 suite. I also have a simple guide I wrote for NVE 3 if you have problems using it.