Doesn't anyone use the guides before posting "how-to" questions?

Pete, BigOrange, or Mayo,

I have a quick question regarding some dilemma with dvd decrypter. Recently, my dvd seem to run into some really annoying problems during the transition from dvd shrink to dvd decrypter. In fact, I end up with about 3 coasters so far, as a result of this problem. I get the following message below once dvd shrink done with the disc and send it to decrypter:

I/O Error!

Device: [0:0:0]_NECDVD_RW-ND3520AW1.UF(G(USB)

ScsiStatus:0x02
Interpretation:Check Condition

CDB: 2A00 00 00 03 40 00 00 20 00
Interpretation: Write(10)-Sectors: 832-863

Sense Area: 70 00 03 00 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 0C 00 00 00 00 00
Intepretation: Write Error

Once again, thank you very much you guys for the valuable time and knowledge.

Thietlong

 

Just a quick update on the problem guys,

I seem to notice it also give me this error message as well:

I/O Error!

Device: [0:0:0]_NECDVD_RW-ND3520AW1.UF(G(USB)

ScsiStatus:0x02
Interpretation:Check Condition

CDB: 2A00 00 00 03 40 00 00 20 00
Interpretation: Write(10)-Sectors: 832-863

Sense Area: 70 00 03 00 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00 02 00 00 00 00 00
Interpretation: No Seek Complete

Thanx in advance you guys.

 

99% of the time, you get an I/O error from using cheap quality media -

Memorex is an excellent example as DVD media goes. 90% of Memorex discs are made by CMC and is sub-standard as far as DVD backups are concerned. Figures as high as 50% coasters have been reported (One member bought a stack of 50 and got 23 good burns.), not what I would call an impressive record. Memorex made a name for itself with their magnetic tapes (VHS and audio cassettes) and have been living off it ever since. There are 4 different companies that manufacture Memorex DVD's BTW and product quality varies widely as you might imagine. Only 10% of the Memorex out there, those are discs manufactured by Mitsubishi in the 25 pack spindle , and they're the exception - they are the good ones. It's easy to see now why the quality of a big-named company can't be trusted - " Who's making your Memorex tonight ?"

Is it just Memorex ? No ! I just used Memorex as an example, Princo, Orange Pack, Great AZO and most "store" discs aren't all that suitable as a DVD backup media - that's why we are specific in the type of media we are recommending.

1. * Cheap media freezes, skips, pixelats and may refuse to be recognized by both burners and players :-( Besides "Freezing", "skips" many times you'll get a "Cyclic Redundancy error" (CRC error) or an "I/O error". This message can mean that your discs are scratched or dirty, it can also mean that your burner won't accept your "cheap" media :-(
Another problem which, "Pops up" is a "*Power Calibration Error". This can stop you right in your tracks and most often is caused by, "Yep, you guessed it", inexpensive media. *A "Power Calibration Error" can also be attributed to the Optical Components of a DVD Writer, though this isn't usually the case.

Orange Pack, Princo, Great AZO and 90% of Memorex, plus many others are just not that good for DVD burning. Those same discs however, are quite good for your MP3 music, picture archives, Spreadsheets and Data..Even DataSafe G04's made by Ritek have been reported as an inferior quality media and are evoking that "Oh no, I shouldn't have gotten those."

What we are suggesting is to download this DVD Identifier to find out who manufactured your DVD and if it's a decent quality.

http://dvd.identifier.cdfreaks.com/

Once you have your disc identified, click the "More information" icon and see what information you're given. if you're not sure of the quality, come on back and we'll check it out for you -

2. A good grade, Hi-quality media is needed for DVD reproduction ! Phillips, TDK, HP, "Branded" RiData Go3's, Maxell +R (not the -R's as they cannot be trusted), Sony, Fuji, Ritek G04 and G05, Verbatim - DataLife, Verbatim - DataLife Plus and media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO" BUT, it must say "Advanced METAL AZO", this indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc. Generally, almost any discs manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, RICOH and Mitsubishi are excellent bets. [/b Prices online from Meritline.com OR Newegg.com have gotten Ritek G04 starting at about a $ .36 (USD) a disc - and just recently, a "super Sale" had TY discs, 2.4X for $.27(USD)ea.

For DVD backups, purchasing inexpensive media or even average media is a gamble, some people win BUT, the majority lose, they lose varying amounts true but, they still lose :-(

I hope that helps,

Pete

 

*HOLD MY HEAD DOWN IN SHAME* Yes unfortunately the CMC got me...got me good. The first pack burn smoothly without any coaster. However, when I start the second pack, good old teon failed me on the spot. End up with 5 coasters out of 40 discs. I switch back to the Office Depot brand, which was ridtek and everything is smooth so far. So far I am looking to upgrade my dvd collection with either the dynex from best buy (ridtek) or ridata. Thanx again pete for the feedback.

thietlong

 

Heh, heh, No worries ~

I was just trying to help you head off headaches.

Suggestions -

1. Adjust your DVD Target size to 4300MB

and,

2. Adjust your speed downward to 2.4X (lower than that causes probles as does anything over 4X), 2.4X seems to be the very best.

You'll work your way thropugh those Memorex with the least amout of coasters -

Peace,

Pete

 

Hi Pete,

Recently my friend let me borrow some of his copy movies. The dvdinfopro read the disc as MCC. However when I try analyzing/recoding the disc, it give me a lot of errors reading it. I try using shrink, decrypter by itself, nero recoding and regular nero burning technique and they all failed during midway or so. Do you think this is also another case of defect disc since I expect MCC to be really good quality (I think this is the Mitsubishi brand if I was not mistaken). As always thanx for the feedback Pete.

 

As before - Would you at least try the adjustments I suggested ?


OR not ?

It's entirely up to you . . .

 

my program dvdxcopy xpress let's it read the whole dvd(step 1) then when i comes to step 2 (burning) it just freezes and says "not responding". what do i do?

 

Hi, boardutah, welcome to aD,

Uninstall the proggy and reinstall it.

If that doesn't work, remember that it is an old proggy, not made in over 1 1/2 years and not worked on in over 2 years. You had a good run with it, it's probably time to put that old, tired horse to sleep and use a program designed for today's DVD work.

Try using the guide in my sig for DVD Decrypter and DVD Shrink They are FREE and easy to use and will provide you with a much better quality backup than XCopy could ever do.

Cheers,

Pete

 

hi there
my brother has accindently bought dvd-r dvds. is there any way i can burn them in my sony DVD+RW DW-P50A?

i have nero6 by the way.
seyuchin

 

Where are the darn guides!!! I tried several links to guides and each one comes up "not found" !!!!

 

Never mind... I found them!!!

 

Yes, I'm a newbie and this is a multi-part question: We are on Time Warner Cable and have to lease a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8000 box to receive and record certain TV shows. This past Christmas 2004, I purchased a Panasonic DMR-E75V hoping that I could back up VCR's to CD's and vice versa as well as use the Panasonic in place of the other box as a tuner. I haven't figured out how to do that yet or if it can be done.

I am in healthcare education and my wife is in secondary education. We both hate to take a new DVD or CD into work that we have paid out-of-pocket for and have it ruined or stolen by some clown. The first obvious problem has been that when the DVD is copyright protected, the Panasonic will not transfer the data from the DVD to the VCR using the dubbing feature. That's how I found this site.

I have printed out (twice) the Guides and Articles for DVD to VCD with SmartRipper, DVD2AVI and TMPGEnc. This is someone who doesn't know the difference between an AVI, MEG, MEG2 except they are different file extensions.

I was able to use my computer to Rip the DVD using SmartRipper. I then used DVD2AVI to creat my project. And, got as far as using TMPGEnc without any problems since I have a CD-Burner on my computer but not a DVD burner. The problem that occured was that I did not have all the subtitles video portions for the DVD. So last night when I decided to start all over using SmartRipper, DVD2AVI, and TMPGEnc programs, I came across the posting for the new program called "DVD Fab Express." When I ran DVD Fab Express, I was able to download the entire contents of my DVD onto my computer harddrive and used the second program to unprotect the data. My question is now that I have done this is "how to" get the info on my harddrive either back to a CD or a DVD? [I do have Nero] Since I don't have a DVD burner on my computer, is the new program DVD Fab Express of any use in my situation.

Since this forum begins with a question that few people consult the Guides and Articles before posting to the forum, I feel that I am looking at one guide that I have printed out which does not satisfactorily answer my questions.

Can you please advise me the easiest and best way to get the DVD data on my harddrive either back to a CD or DVD disk? And, if I have misunderstood what the new program is supposed to do, could you post with it some caveat about what equipment/programs are needed to use it so that newbies like myself don't appear to be such idiots.

Thanking you again for this website and forum and the help that is so freely being given.

 

Hi there ncsleep, welcome to aD,

As for your recording things from your TV, Use a DVD recorder and then download that into your PC. We then can take that DVR file convert it to DVD and it will be ready for frying to a DVD OR convert it, then burn to CD. Had you going for a second didn't I ? You said you didn't have a DVD burner. The reason I said that is, today's prices aren't anything like they were just a single year ago. You can buy a DVD burner for $60 or $70 dollars (USD), then pickup a DVD/Hard drive (USB 2.0) case for $29.99 at any computer store OR online and in 5 minutes, be ready to go. "But ScubaPete, I don't know anything about the inside workings of a PC or drives - I wouldn't have any Idea of what to do." No worries my new friend, it comes with pictures and all you have to do is plug 2 or maybe 3 wires into the drive. "Really Man, I wouldn't lie to you." Then you screw the top and the bottom of the case together. Take 1 power wire (it comes with the case) and plug it into the wall and into the case, then take the last wire and plug it into the USB port in your PC. You're in business, top-of-the-line DVD burner that will burn CD's and all DVD's with enough money left over from a $100 dollar bill to get a Mickie "D's" Happy meal.

Anyway, if you want to split your DVD's between 2 CD discs, no worries, a program called SuperDVDRipper makes it all a single mouse click away.

Get your SuperDVDRipper here:
http://www.voodoofiles.com/20271

Hey there ScubaPete, I want to backup my original DVD's and they are all copyright protected. Again, no worries, check the link in my sig. to break that silly copyright thingie and copy it to a CD OR a DVD.
How about cost ? Again, not to worry. We have proggys that are FREE to do the work and some dynamite ripper proggys like "AnyDVD" that make life easy as pie (never did know what rthat meant, Lol).
But I don't know anything about that "stuff" I can turn my PC on and off and that's about it. Tis easy, I spelled everything out so you need to do nothing but follow simple instructions.

Give it a try ~

Here's one guide, right here,

Is everybody ready? Ok then, lets just sit down and get comfy in front of the Big screen TV cause in just a minute or so, the "Uncle ScubaPete Show" will be coming on the air! "Brought to you this evening by DVDplusVideo, the "Fat chewing" champion's location of choice . . . and, under threats by a crazed, speargun waving maniac, we are forced to present Mr. Brain-Dead, direct from his extend stay at the Happy Hills Institute of the Mentally Disabled and Disturbed Souls, and here he'll be until it's been discovered that he's escaped yet again from that fine facility . . . . and here he is, live and unfortunately still disturbed, it's Uncle ScubaPete!

Ooohhh Boy, Ooohh Boy am I excited ! ! 1

And what's so great it could get old ScubaPete
(The original couch potato) excited? FREE STUFF that's
what . . . The new FREE DVD Shrink 3.2 and DVD Decrypter!

(But ScubaPete, Those programs have always been FREE)
Yes, But now they've been updated so that they can handle 100% of today's encrypted DVD's !

We now we can go from start to finish with just two
programs (technical knowledge and checkbook not necessary) and they are,
DVD Shrink and DVD Decrypter. . . .

Come on and get your FREE DVD Shrink, right here . . . .

DVD Shrink 1.04MB - http://www.dvdshrink.org/

Now, available over there, in isle 5, get your FREE DVD Decrypter . . .

Download DVD Decrypter 3.5.4.0 -
http://www.afterdawn.com/software/video_software/dvd_rippers/dvd_decrypter.cfm

"How good is all this stuff ?" You ask ?
This whole guide thingie is so good that you might just want to PRINT IT OUT NOW ! (So much easier to follow along, don't you know ? )

"NOW, IS EVERYBODY READY ??? Out standing ! ! . . . .

First, we need to create a folder for our DVD work before hand. This is a place on your HD where DVD Decrypter can put it's work after it decrypts your DVD (rids it of that encryption thingie) and where DVD Shrink can work on the movie files just prior to burning it to your blank DVD. Try to put it someplace where you won't forget it. I made a folder on my Desktop, - i.e. Desktop, ALL DVD WORK.

Within that folder we'll put 2 more folders. The first folder will be named for the movie, i.e., "Resident Evil, Apocalypse" - RIPPED. Inside that folder, create another folder called, VIDEO_TS (write it just like that, it's case sensitive). This is the "Destination" for DVD Decrypter to place your decrypted files. Notice that I put "Ripped" after the movie's name. The reason I do this is because I may have to return the DVD to the "Playroom" before the Kids go nuts and, by saving it like I did, I can finish it now OR, a week from now and I always know what work has been done OR, what work needs to be done. At one time, while awaiting an order of DVD's, I had a total of 27 movies on my HD. It was a good thing I had over 600 GB of HD (Lol).

The second folder will also be named for the movie, i.e., " Resident Evil, Apocalypse", FINISHED". This is the folder that DVD Shrink will use to put the completed DVD files or the ISO image prior to burning to disc.

Once files are in the "FINISHED" folder, if you are pressed for free hard drive space, you can delete the "RIPPED" folder without a worry about your project. As you see, there are "safe" spots to stop should you wish, not so with most $$$$ programs.

Time for a short break . . . So far, it may sound confusing BUT it's really not. I just want you to know why you're doing certain things. It's so much better than wandering about in the dark (I get accused of that all the time, Lol). Why all these folders ? Well, there are many different types of DVD encryptions and while DVD Shrink can rip quite a few by itself and doesn't need the extra folder, DVD Decrypter does a much better job BUT requires a folder.

There are other programs that can decrypt DVD's without the need of a folder. One is DVD43 which, like both of the programs we're using today, is absolutely FREE. The problem is that DVD43 can only decrypt about 85% of the encryptions while DVD Decrypter will handle 100% of all encryptions. Why not use DVD Decrypter then ? Well the authorities just closed down DVDD and it will not be updated or supported anymore. It will be sometime before it becomes useless so I would lean toward it as the price is unbeatable Another program is AnyDVD and while it can handle 100% of all encrypted DVD's and CD's, it isn't free. Though it is updated frequently, sometimes breaking an encryption before the encryption is released, after it's 21-day free trial, it does cost $$$$. Both of these programs work automatically, behind the scenes, so-to speak, so that once you have downloaded them and installed them, you don't ever have to touch them, you hardly see them working. Operating in the background, they both render discs region free and encryption free as soon as you place them in your PC. I'll give you the links for them and if you wish, you can take them out for a spin around the block.

1. DVD43 (FREE).(Only works on Win2K and XP) It works behind the scenes, automatically, so there's nothing for you to do. Just download and install it and let it run. A "smiley" face will tell you that it's working. It will break 96% of the encryptions:

Download:
DVD43 from Mr Bass - http://dvd43.com/

2. AnyDVD, (Free trial; for 21-days then $39.99) It works behind the scenes, "automatically", so there's nothing for you to do. Just download and install it and let it run. Because it is a $$ program, it works on 100% of the encryptions and is constantly updated. I suggest you use it for the 21-day Free trial period to see how you like it.

Download:
AnyDVD - http://www.slysoft.com/en/anydvd.html

Remember, those 2 programs are options, we don't need them today,

Time to get back to work . . . .

Let's go get one of your favorite DVD's to make a copy of, so should something unforeseen happen, like a waterspout hitting the Mojave Desert and destroying the original you'll have a backup of it. We'll also need some pretzels and a cold beer - they're all needed to make our backup. The DVD for you and the pretzels and brew-ski for "Uncle" ScubaPete.
Place your original DVD in your DVD-ROM drive and a DVD blank in your burner's drive. (Of course, if you only have a single drive, place your original in that drive.) When using DVD Decrypter, after you hear the "finished" tune, remove the original disc and replace with your blank media. Then, first chance you get if you have room, buy yourself a DVD-ROM to ease the strain on your burner DVD ROMs were designed to read (lots of stop and go involved) and can do a better job of it than can a DVD burner, not to mention, adding years of life to your DVD R/W drive. If you have a CD R/W and a DVD R/W, lose the CD R/W in exchange for a DVD ROM, you'll never be sorry for the trade.
Ooohhh, the pretzels and the Beer, set them right there by the monitor, I'll be able to get them from here ~ "Thanks," ~

Now open up DVD Decrypter - and under "Mode", select "File." In the main window, under "Source", Browse to your DVD-ROM for your DVD. Select for your "Destination" your "RIPPED / VIDEO_TS" folder. Remember to select the VIDEO_TS folder, if the files aren't there, DVD Shrink can't pick them up. There, all set. - Let's "Click" on the Disc to HD icon and allow DVD Decrypter to do it's decrypting thing while we continue with DVD Shrink. We'll wait until we hear DVD Decrypter play it's, "I'm finished now." tune, to know when it's done.

Now, into DVD Shrink we go, let's "click" "Edit", then "click" "Preferences" on this page we're going to select "DVD Target Size" as "Custom", we'll find this by using the "drop-down" menu where it says, "DVD-5 (4.7GB)", and now we've selected "Custom", let's set the size to "4360MB". This is closer to the actual amount of free space we have on a regular DVD plus a small amount of "wiggle" room.. We do this to make sure that we don't burn to the very edge of the disc. When using poorer quality media we may have to go lower still, as the dye toward the edge many times is uneven or even absent. In the case of some poorer quality discs, such as Memorex, we may have to reduce the size to 4200MB in order to avoid burning errors. I'll tell you about media after we finish setting up DVD Shrink.

The next 3 tabs, the Preview, Output Files and Stream Selections are fine in their default settings.

Lets go now to the "File I/O" tab.

The top 3 boxes, are fine. Under "Burn Settings," check to make sure that "Enable burning with Nero" is checked.
DO THAT NOW ! When using DVD Shrink we can burn with several different programs "automatically". Today we're using DVD Decrypter to rip and to burn, cost, $Na.da. DVD Shrink can also use Nero to burn (cost, $$$.$$, yep) and it can also use CopyToDVD to burn, (cost, $$$.$$, you bet). Nero is a popular application offering many different programs in its suite whereas, CopyToDVD is just a burning program BuT, I have to add, it's one of the fastest / finest burning programs available. In order to burn with Nero, this must be ticked. BuT with it "ticked", the other programs are available for you to use also.

Why are we spending so much time talking about this little 'ole box ? This "Box," when "ticked," also controls your burning speed when burning with Nero. By un-checking it, you won't be able to access a drop-down window in the "Backup" section of Shrink, where you can adjust your burning speed when using Nero. This control can help reduce the chance of errors while burning when using poorer quality media OR when you are using a newer burner and new discs that may allow you to burn at 16X, far too fast for backing up DVD's. For the most part , excess speed equals errors when in excess of 8X. Now Click, "OK."

We need to use a good quality media for our backup, so PLEASE USE either Sony, Fuji, HP, Ritek "G04", Ritek G05, Phillips, Ridata "G03", Verbatim "DataLife", Verbatim DataLife "Plus", media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO Dye, Taiyo Yuden's or almost any discs manufactured by RICOH, Ritek, OR Mitsubishi. They are all excellent bets.

When in doubt, use "DVD Identifier" to check a discs manufacturer -

Download:
DVD Identifier from cdfreaks.com
http://dvd.identifier.cdfreaks.com/

Using other media could cause CRC errors. Only the very best quality media should be used for DVD Video backups. Price unfortunately, is not a reliable gauge for determining quality. Many times, a good, consistent quality disc will cost less than a disc manufactured without any noticeable quality controls. We look for a good dye, applied evenly from the inside to the outer edge of a high quality disc. Believe it or not, decent quality isn't really expensive. Go Figure, Huh ?

This might be a good time to use a DVD RW if you have one. We don't use them regularly because for one, many DVD players won't play them and secondly, they cost too much (Lol). We use rewritable discs in the beginning so that if we make a mistake, it won't cost us a disc. Once we master our steps, we'll then switch to our single-write media. (Though if you're following this guide to the "letter", you should have a great backup, poor media excluded.)

"Hey Good Guy, Did you hear that ?" That was the, "I'm finished now !" tune. DVDD is finished ripping the encryption and the movie is on our HD. You don't need the original any more, if you like, you can put it back in the box.

First things first. Before we shut down DVD Decrypter, we want to go back and set it up for writing. Go to "Mode" and go to "ISO" then select "Write". For "Source", we can leave that blank, DVD Shrink will handle that for us. Under "Destination", let's put our DVD Burner there. We can now close DVDD, as DVD Shrink will use it while it is closed.

(I could use another Beer, that last one is history, ~ Thanks ~

Now let's burn a DVD, OK?

Kweel! Alright then, let's open DVD Shrink and click "Open Disk"and "Browse" on your Desktop to, ALL DVD WORK, Resident Evil, Apocalypse, "RIPPED" then your VIDEO_TS folder with our DVD files there and "click", "OK". We'll have to wait anywhere from 30-seconds to a minute for DVD Shrink to analyze your DVD then we'll be ready to proceed . . . .

If you wish, we can edit your movie now.

To trim some unnecessary items from your movie, under audio, you can "un-tick" some extra audio you don't want, like the foreign audio streams, i.e. Klingon, Solarian Cluster Mush OR Eastern Himalayan Yak language selections or the Director's comments (also known as Outer Mongolian). This will result in your DVD requiring less compression and therefore providing you with a better quality picture. Also, some DVD's have "sub-pictures" - NO, they aren't pictures of submarines.
and NO, subpicture streams aren't something I'll get into here . . . Enough to say that subpictures generally contain sub-titles in different languages and such. They're things we can well do without like a bad case of flu, Sooo, iffin' Ya got'em, un-check'em. They'll give us more space for our main feature.

Option, Editing -
If you would like, as I do, to get rid of all the extras and trailers thus compressing your movie as little as possible (giving you the very best quality picture), click "Re-author" then, under "Main Movie" select "Title 1"
If there are additional choices, look at the time and select the title with the longest time as that is usually the main attraction. "Click" and drag the "Title 1" from the right-hand side of the screen to the left-hand side, under the "DVD Structure" (DVD) and release it there.
Additional editing may be done by using the "Start" "Finish" controls to the right of the "DVD Compilation" heading on the left-hand side of the Re-author window. This allows you to trim off some of the beginning of the movie OR trim off the credits at the end if you want. To tell you the truth, It is only very rarely that I trim anything from the main feature. Using this feature allows you to reduce the main feature to the same size as your DVD-5 disc without any compression, providing you with an exact copy of the movie. Something else to consider, when ignoring this feature and compressing the entire DVD to fit on a single disc (a "Full Backup") I have never been able to distinguish any loss of picture quality with the naked eye.
Bingo, Bango, you are done editing, giving you the least compression (best quality), backup possible.

Now let's finish this "Puppy" off.

NOTE:
Iffin you want a "Full Backup", that's everything on the original disc on your backup. We just need to be sure that the "Full Disc" icon is depressed. Don't try to cheer it up and don't worry, it likes being "depressed". (Lol)
There's no problem at all in doing a "Full Backup" as long as we don't see any "Red" on the size bar at the top of your window. If you should see some "Red" on the size bar, simply "Un-tick" any foreign languages you don't need, i.e. Klingon, Solarian Mush-mouth, Director's comments or DTS sound boxes until the "Red" disappears. I keep all AC3 2-ch (basic stereo) tracks and the AC3 5.1 Dolby stereo track. Deleting them may well provide you with a, "silent picture show". Remember to un-check those submarines (Ooopps,) I mean subpictures that contain the subtitles too.
Actually, you can "Un-tick" all those unneeded audio and subpicture tracks anyway, it'll lessen the compression on your backup. (a good thing With no "Red" visible on the size bar we can just let the "Automatic" (Default) settings alone.

Since we are editing our DVD, DO NOT TOUCH THE "FULL DISC" BUTTON. Clicking the "Full Disc" button will erase our editing work and reset DVD Shrink to do a full backup.

"BURP" ~ ~ excuse me . . seems ScubaPete get's a tiddle tisspy on a single beer, ) Esscuse me )

We're in the homestretch . . .
It's now time to select Backup". Take just a second and under the "Target Device tab," go to "Select backup target" once there, select "ISO Image File and burn with DVD Decrypter". Where it says "Select target image file", "Browse" until you find your created folder for your DVD Shrink files. LQQk on your Desktop for ALL DVD WORK, Resident Evil, Apocalypse, "FINISHED" and click, "OK".

Now, under "Quality Settings" tab, if it's SPEED you're after, "Un-tick" the box which says, "Perform deep analysis" and "Un-tick" the box for "Compress the video with high quality adaptive error compensation". This will give you a fairly acceptable DVD backup. If it's QUALITY you're after and have some extra time to spend, "tick" Perform deep analysis before backup to improve quality" AND "tick""Compress video with high quality adaptive error compensation."
There you may adjust quality enhancements to suit yourself. Practicing with the settings can produce even better end products. For a no-frills DVD's like "Paycheck" I like "Extra Smoothness" BUT for DVD's with a lot of special effects, like "The Matrix Reloaded", I use the "Extra Sharpness" setting. That's for me, you'll have to decide what you like

If all the boxes are "Grayed out" that's OK, it means your DVD is small enough that nothing will be lost from the original. Excellent, we're all done here.

That's it ! ! Click "OK" and enjoy a peaceful cup of tea. DVD Shrink will work it's little heart out, obeying your commands and putting a copy of your work on your HD while instructing DVD Decrypter to toast your DVD image to your waiting disc to a rich, golden "Done".

Believe it or not, the next time you do this will be faster than a slimy sloth sailing down a southern sunny slope ? We'll not have to mess with our settings again, our folders are all made, renaming them is all that you need do, the next time through, you should be finished in 30 to 45 minutes depending upon the DVD's size and of course, your PC specs. Since you haven't spent a cent on your software and since you can achieve a better quality backups than a lot of $$$$ programs, having to click your mouse 3 or 4 times seems like a fair trade (Lol and then some.

One last thing, . . . .

PLEASE, STEP AWAY FROM THE COMPUTER !

It's far too late in the game to ruin a perfect thing. When your PC burns DVD's, it requires 100% of your processor to do the job correctly. Burning CD's is a joke compared to what it has to do now. So, for now, let's allow your PC to work in peace.
When the job is through, your PC will let you know.

Tell me now, . . . .

Wasn't that finer than frog hair . . . ?

Slicker than that slimy, slithery, sailin', Southern, three-toed Sloth . . . ?

Yea, ya see, . . . . I thought you'd say that, . . . Me and thee, what a team, :-D)

Rember to stop back and let me know how you made out, alright ? Good !

Remember, when you want a guide with an "Out of sight, Out of his mind" personality, shop ScubaPete

Cheers,

Pete

 

MR. Scuba,

Great Post! Man you know how to say it in a simple and to the point manner. I appreciate your wealth of knowledge. Thanks!!! A quick question...

You stated at the start of your post:

"You can buy a DVD burner for $60 or $70 dollars (USD), then pickup a DVD/Hard drive (USB 2.0) case for $29.99 at any computer store OR online and in 5 minutes, be ready to go..."

Am I correct in understanding that you referring to building your own external burner? If so, is there any advantage to doing so over buying an external burner? Currently I am using a HP 4x speed +R burner. I haven't had any problems with it, but I have been considering upgrading to a DL burner that does +R/-R. I know that you can buy external burners for pretty cheap now that do all the things I want- but when I read your post it made me consider/think about the "build your own" option, if that is an option? Thanks Mr. Scuba, or whoever else replies.

-TMO

 

The advantage is you save a bunch of bucks! To build one costs around 90.00-100.00 which only consists of inserting the internal burner in the external case. Very simple and anyone can do it. To buy an external burner you're looking at 150.00-300.00 depending on brand and features, dual format, dual layer, etc..


Hey Pete, how goes it? Long time no talk! ;>)

 

Hey there TMO,

The advantage is that you can pick your own burner (anything BUT a HP burner) and you'll have what you want and sea a savings of about 1/3 the cost.

Why pay $149.99 (Like my friend BigOrange said, that's the cheapest)when you can do the whole thing for less than $100.00 ? If you spend a bit more for your burner, so what ? You're then getting a better quality setup for less $$$$. I did it with a Pioneer 109, 16X, DL burner and it costs me $105.00.

All we're talking about here is plugging in a couple of wires and screwing a box together AND my box has cool little "working lights"
on each side, is narrower than a prebuilt case and it took me 5 minutes to put together (it took longer to open the 2 boxes). How can you lose?

Cheers,

Pete

 

Hey there "Big Guy" haven't sean you around like forever. I'm like a bad case of the flu, I'm always around, Lol