Sounds fairly typical of an Asus board. Get an updated BIOS from the Asus website (make sure it's the right one) and stick it on a USB stick and run that.
I went to the asus site and searched my motherboard but im unsure what file i need to download. Can anyone give me a link to the page i download the latest bios?
I think i have found the right file. M4A79XTD EVO BIOS 0901 Improve system stability when using EPU and AOD at the same time. I want to make sure its the right one before i use it. I got it from the Asus website.
I'm interested to see how you go with the flash. Its strange to me that your bios and ram both seem to be faulty. I wonder if a dodgy PSU can cause this kind of corruption, or maby some virus. Hmm? BTW a Corsair CX 400W is enough for your system with a 5770. You will only be using around 21.92Amps and the CX has 30Amps on its 12v rail.
21.92 amps eh? Awfully precise, how did you work that out? (considering the act of double clicking a folder icon can temporarily increase power usage by as much as 0.2 amps it is never going to be that precise). Also, 21.92A on the 12V makes 263W DC side, not including power drawn on the other rails, which is more than that system is likely to use.
So on that post you are saying your own PSU recommendation is incorrect, after recommending a 400CX YOURSELF stating it 'will work with any medium power graphics card'? I worked that out through simple math, watts devided by volts. Yes its not 100% correct but its a damn good indication! & 0.2Amps isnt a drematic increase over 10Amps spare. As long any major draw on power isnt sustained ITS FINE! Graphics card 108W / 12V = 9.00A Processor (Thermal Design Power) 125W / 12V = 10.42A Hard drive (on average) 10W / 12V = 0.83A Optical drive (cd/dvd) 20W / 12V = 1.67A TOTAL = 21.92 You want to have a go at me for backing your choice up and offering him separate information go ahead, just because it says I'm a Junior Member on this forum that doesnt mean I am else where!
Not having a go, just pointing out that it's not quite as simple as adding the TDPs up. PC components never use exactly their rated wattage, it depends what you do and also how the chip was classified. Some 125W chips use 118W when maxed out, others 145W. The same goes for graphics cards, you can't just add the figures up. I'm not disrecommending the 400W CX unit, far from it. However, 400W is more than sufficient for this system. If there was a 350W Corsair unit I'd probably recommend that, but there isn't, so the 400 will do. A good brand is more important than the exact right wattage. Besides, the extra available power can be used for future upgrades.
I have put the file on a usb and when it checked for usb it didnt find anything. I put the file on another usb and it said "reading file "M4A79XTD.ROM" File "M4A79XTD.ROM" not found on usb device!" It has started to search for usb again and has stoped during. I havent turned it off yet. Shoud i reboot and try again?
how did the file appear when you download it? You need to have just the .ROM file on the USB stick. Most manufacturer websites when you download the file come in a .zip or self-extracting program, which will then extract the required files. If you had such a file, you need to extract the .ROM and put that on the USB drive.
Is it in the root directory of the drive, i.e. not within a folder? If it is, then there's not a lot else I can suggest. If the board doesn't boot claiming bad BIOS and doesn't allow you to update, then your best bet would be to return the motherboard for replacement.
Its not in a folder i wiped everything from the usb and just put the .ROM on. Should i try again? or is there no point.
Well, you can do (make sure the USB drive is plugged straight into the PC, preferably one of the ports at the back, and not a USB hub) but if no success, I think RMA time.
Dude you are frustrating. You argue that I'm incorect when your arriving at the same conclusion as me. Plus as I stated its only an indication, and in most cases it is as simple as that. The 12v rail is really the only major concirm with a most items drawing heavily on it (such that a 400W could have voltage problems but in this case its doubtfull) so adding up all the TDP's generally a good way to tell if the PSU has enough juice. A good indication is to add up all the watts your system will be using (add 30% more), see if the PSU is rated to this then see how many Amps you will be drawing and see if it can deliver enough with out being overloaded. Its important to remember a PSU's wattage rating isn't conducive to determining amperage at any specific voltage. As mentioned above, modern computers are 12V-heavy loads. A 400W PSU may sound adequate, but if its 12V amperage is in the low 20s or less it may not be able to power a modern computer so it is just as important to calculate the Amps (as best you can) as well as the watts.
Nope, you're frustrating, I'm not arguing that you're incorrect, I'm just pointing out that things aren't as simple as you say they are. The best way to figure out what PSU you need is to use real world data on how much power systems draw, apply the PSU's known efficiency rating and work it out from that. TDPs are much too vague to say for sure. Generally, you get a rough trend emerging. A PC with a single PCIe 6-pin graphics card and a quad core CPU is going to be fine on a 400W CPU, but one with two 6-pins or a 6+8 should be using at least a 450, preferably a 550, to be safe. Four 6-pin config and you want a 650/750, and so on. Choosing PSUs solely on summing the TDPs of the hardware isn't really that accurate, as it does not consider the number of connectors required.
That is only one of the tests to do when finding a PSU. I'M NOT NOW OR NEVER SAID you purchase a PSU solely on the TPD's, thats only one indication to look for. Many times people have brought generic PSU's with high watts and low amps that can't power their rig. I was reinforcing that it wouldnt be the case here as he will have some move to room in that department. As you already stated it has a single PCIe power connector and he will only be using around 120W so I assume you have done calculations of your own. Why reiterate them, the only thing left to comment on was amp usage which hadnt been discussed. Everything comes into consideration, I was only posting on one aspect and its naive of you to assume that its the only consideration I make when choosing a PSU. Who wouldnt check its efficiency or connectors, that is assumed. I know to look for ATX12V v2.2 standard, 80 PLUS Certification, Over Current/Voltage/Power Protection, Under Voltage Protection and Short Circuit Protection but why burden people with all that when a little information from each poster gives the thread maker a solid base to weigh his options and come to a decision. I really don't want to have a go at you mate I never ment to indicate its that simple. I was only scratching the surface, if he wanted to know more or posted about why that PSU would suit him I would have gone into a lot more detail as would have you. Thats really all I have to say. I don't want to hijack beccajay2's thread anymore, lets focus on him.
