SUP, this build is for my dad, he owns a store and needs a comp for VOIP and stuff, i told him id make him one, so anyways one overclocked P3 and a little tape, i made him a comp. So, the graphic card is heating up and i wanna cool it, i'm using an old chipset heatsink, i just want a cheap way to stick her on. Thanks
I can't imagine that the glue will have sufficient thermal conductive properties, and may well have the opposite effect and actual act as a thermal insulator, ending up with increased temperatures. Directing a case fan to blow directly over the card would act just as well as anything else.
i dont have any gpu coolers in mind. i went to zalman and looked @ the info about it and it appears that my card(7600) has the same fittings as the 6800s so i now know which cards will fit as my card doesnt show as compatable with alot of the coolers i had looked at. now the problem, the zalman 900 led and others i have since looked at needs to be connected to a 3 pin mobo header and i dont have one spare, in fact the one for a case fan has 2 on it already so i would like one that i can connect to the card so that the forceware can control the rpms, or one that plugs into a molex coz i have got 3 of them spare, but i cant seem to find any that do. surley they must make them like this, does anyone know of any that fit the bill? [bold]edit[/bold] @bigdk sorry i missread the context of the question at first. the water cooled one in your rig, i now think it was a daft question as it could not go in to the back of the card and must go over the top of it.
Here is a closeup of the fixing of the cooler. It is a full cover so cools all parts of the card, and as some cards such as my 7900GTX need cooling on the power management chips, it has an add-on part to cool that area as well.
how long is that card? on the other pic it looked like the cooler was on the back of the pci card not over the top of that one. i think i need glasses. what is that like for weight?
Card is about 230mm long, as for the weight, it is obviously heavier than the original cooler, but there is no bending of the card. The block weighs 550g.
i think i would be paranoid about the weight on the card/pci-e port, but it does look great with all the lights and tubes. i cant wait to see how much higher it lets you push your oc.
Was there some kind of program that would monitor your pc temp etc? It would be kinda interesting to see how mine's doing.
Hi not bad cheers. I've been doing a lot of house keeping on my old hdd's that have been lying about, so thats kept me busy. Also been getting ready for a clear out of parts on eBay, so have been writing adverts etc... ready for listings. The system is stable, so now its just finding time to really push the system to the limits and get the benchmarks up a bit more. I'll post a few more pics hopefully.
glad all is ok we(the ocing thread) had started to wonder as you had not posted for a week. thermal paste, how long should you wait to power up after aplying it? i only ask this as in the past i never have given it any time to cure and i now wonder if it would give any improvement to the cooling if i did?
Personally I never give it any specific time to cure, I apply it and then after a couple of minutes install it. Not wanting to teach anyone to suck eggs! But just remember that you need to use the least amount of paste you can get away with to get an even covering. It's only there really to enable the surfaces to mate correctly where they are not perfectly flat. As for not posting too often, I'll let you read the other threads and make your own conclusions.
SUP, I was wondering if this watercooling kit is compatible with my Asus P5B Deluxe LGA 775 mobo and my Core2 E6600 processor. I plan to overclock to 4Ghz. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/h20-120-PREMIUM.asp#comparative. And I would like to know if my processor might overheat with this cooling system. my case is a Thermaltake Armor Jr. thanks
The Apogee water block cools about the same as my storm, so that is not a problem. I have no idea how well the single radiator works, but if its only being used for the cpu cooling not a gpu as well, then it should handle it no problem. Rememeber that to get to 4ghz on the 6600 cpu you'll need an fsb of 444, so you'll need memory that can handle that speed DDR880, unless you start using dividers on the memory (not the best idea for stability). The 6600 has very low temps to start with, best idea is to see how far you can push it onstok voltage first, mine got up to just under 3.4 on 1.35volts.
SUP, Great, i'm going to buy it than. i'm go'n to be using Corsair dual chanel PC6400 ram and my mobo has a high 500Mhz FSB, the only thing than im worried about is cooling. i'm only going to be cooling the CPU with the kit. thanks a lot man
Well since this is the cooling thread, I think I should post my problem on here. My processor is overheating and has only started doing this recently. Is it possible that the heat sink transfer is burning away? I'm also confused because there is no Thermal compound with this processor (Pentium 4 3.0Ghz) it is already 'prefitted with a thermal interface' so basically, how can I get it cool again and stopping from overheating when using DVD Shrink? Any help would be great thanks.
Hi, Not exactly sure about how there is no thermal paste. Ideally get some quality thermal paste like Arctic Silver 5, which about £5-7 per tube, and then remove the heatsink and fan from the CPU. You should then clean the CPU and heatsink of all the old paste with a cleaning solution such as Akasa TIM clean. You should apply the new paste using a small amount on one side of the heatsink and drag it over to form as thin a layer as possible, using a credit card is best for the job. I presume you have already removed the cooler to see what state the paste is (paste should always be removed and re-applied in this case). You could always use the opportunity to fully clean the fan and fins of the heatsink, or maybe upgrade the heatsink to a better after market cooler. Make sure you also have good airflow from front to rear pulling air in the front and pushing it out the rear, so any heat around the board is also removed.