The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

according to newegg, it does come with a advanced thermal compound. Whether or not it is already applied, I do not know. Russ or Will should Know

 

Cool one less thing that I can potentially screw up when the CPU arrives

 

3kJd0,
It's the thermal paste. I used it the first time I installed The Eco, just to see how good it was. It worked pretty good. Eventually I used Arctic Cooling MX-2, because it is 100% non-Conductive. Arctic Silver 5 is very good too, but I switched to MX-2 a couple of years ago, which seems to be slightly better.

If you decide to change it, you have to clean the other stuff off first with Alcohol, and then use the pea method. Just a little ball of it, about the size of a small pea, right in the middle of the CPU, and carefully tighten down the Pump/Heatsink, cross corner! Much easier than it sounds, too! IC Diamond recommends this method.
http://www.innovationcooling.com/applicationinstructions.htm

Russ

 

Roger roger, I'll stick with the preapplied for now

Roger roger I think I'll stick with the preapplied at first
So from the little research I've done I would guess the MX-2 is a ceramic based thermal paste?

 

so the paste is pretty good?

 

redice,
Seems to be! Toothpaste works well in a pinch, too!

Russ

 

ok thanks and didn't know that toothpaste works as well.

 

Toothpaste only works until it dries up, don't use it

 

Sam,
I wouldn't go so far as to say don't use it, but common sense should tell you to replace it ASAP! It doesn't dry out that fast! I know plenty of people who have taken their CPU cooler off, cleaned everything only to realize they are out of their favorite Thermal Paste. It will last long enough to use the computer until your favorite Thermal paste get's there!

Russ

 

Would that be the type with baking soda, or the minty fresh gel?

 

With Floride! LOL!!

 

You guys are RETARDED!!! LOL.

I'm NOT using toothpaste as I'm gonna make sure I have plenty of my favorite TIM available!!! LOL.

 

Amen Gm, Amen LOL!

That is an intriguing idea though Russ

 

Ha ha! So far, every attempt to halt my system has failed. Virtually zero lag. But I haven't restored everything to as it was. And I had some things shut off in windows 7. E.g. Indexing service. And I wonder if shutting that off is such a good idea now. I'll see about shutting it off later and see what happens. Sure am loving it though. It's highly responsive now I wonder if it was a driver causing the conflict though too. So far, I haven't updated the video driver. Still the stock windows7/nvidia driver. I'm gonna forgo the sound driver, since it's really not necessary as of now. The stock one sounds every bit as good as the driver that comes on the gigabyte Driver cd.

 

Hoorah! enough parts have come to put together this beast. The most pressing question atm is in the eco cpu cooler directions. It says to disable the thermal fan regulation for the power pump. I am unsure where to find this in the BIOS. The PC Health menu says the CPU is running at 36C which is no where near Russ' chilly CPU I figure I will have to reorganize the fans somehow or perhaps I need to redo the cpu/heatsink connection and paste. I tried throwing my existing HD for fun but it wouldn't boot up because of a missing/corrupt file system/config. It suggests putting the xp setup disk in to fix the missing file but alas I haven't seen that cd in years
The 5850 is insanely large! Good thing this snazy coolmaster case is big.
Another question the chassis fans don't reach the bottom to MOBO headers not to mention the both have 3 holes and the fan headers one would mesh correctly the other has 4 pins. Does it matter if the chassis fans are connected to MOBO as opposed to the PSU molex lines.
If yes then I will have to get some extension cables

 

I think I have a snowballs chance in hell to find it but yeah been looking for it

 

3kJodo,
Just connect the pump to a molex plug from the PSU, and then you won't have to worry about voltage to the pump! The wire lengths seem to be a problem for a lot of people. Another reason I don't much like Full Towers! You can get extensions for the plugs.

As far as the CPU fans go, I have a Scythe 1200 rpm, 68 cfm pulling air out of the back of the radiator, and the fan that came with it (63 cfm) pushing air into the front of the radiator. Here's the model Scythe!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185058

The fan controls will be in the bios setup. Gigabyte puts theirs in the PC Health section! Don't know what your Motherboard is! Gigabyte calls theirs, "Smart Fan Control"! It needs to be disabled, as PWM does not work well with this cooler. It's just too slow at getting up to speed. I found with mine that the moment the load vanishes, the CPU will drop a good bit. PWM simply can't keep up with the changes. You would need a temperature sensor for the Radiator itself, as that's where the majority of the heat is located, at all times!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

3kJodo,
Just connect the pump to a molex plug from the PSU, and then you won't have to worry about voltage to the pump! The wire lengths seem to be a problem for a lot of people. Another reason I don't much like Full Towers! You can get extensions for the plugs.

As far as the CPU fans go, I have a Scythe 1200 rpm, 68 cfm pulling air out of the back of the radiator, and the fan that came with it (63 cfm) pushing air into the front of the radiator. Here's the model Scythe!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185058

The fan controls will be in the bios setup. Gigabyte puts theirs in the PC Health section! Don't know what your Motherboard is! Gigabyte calls theirs, "Smart Fan Control"! It needs to be disabled, as PWM does not work well with this cooler. It's just too slow at getting up to speed. I found with mine that the moment the load vanishes, the CPU will drop a good bit. PWM simply can't keep up with the changes. You would need a temperature sensor for the Radiator itself, as that's where the majority of the heat is located, at all times!

Best Regards,
Russ[/quote]

I'm trying to picture in my head your setup so you have the scythe fan screwed into the chassis the radiator screwed into the scythe fan and then the fan that came with the eco on the opposite side of the radiator secured via zip ties or whatnot?
I ended up getting omegas MOBO figured wth spent the extra 20 bucks

So the fan header on the MOBO with 4 pins is that ok to plug a 3 pin fan wire into or would it need to have the four pin plug like the eco lit fan has

 

You shouldn't regret that board. It's the best one I've bought thus far Sata 6/GBs is still in need of proper coding amongst some of the softwares. Haven't had any problems with the usb 3.0 ports. Reading the Hard drives smart statistics off a sata 6Gb/s port, seems to be where the only trouble lies thus far. And who knows, perhaps that has been solved now. Don't know...

Clips for a motherboard are generally error proof. I made a silly mistake last year, plugging a Pci-e power connection (8pin) into the cpu power header. The board didn't fire. It was a different board that still runs perfectly Otherwise, You really can't go wrong plugging things in You CAN plug a 3 pin wire, into a 4 pin port. They're generally the same, just different sizes.

Though the floppy drive 4 pin is a bit different