Absolutely. Am running 1600MHz memory on a 1333 standard board right now with an OC at the same time and no problems.
^ Fred is that directed at me? I have absolutely no idea what you're trying to say. Thanks Estuansis; just wanted to be 100% sure before telling my friend that the board they're looking at will do what they want
Thanks for clarifying that for me, after reading redmaws statement I said to myself what the hell is he talking about, so yes sammy is right, the spammers post dissapeared.
I've got a weird problem with my computer. I've been experiencing a problem where every once in a while I turn on the computer and the lights work, with both the power and HDD light is on steady, and it doesn't post. Until the day before yesterday, all I had to do was pull the plug on the PSU for a few minutes and it boots right up. When it acted up two days ago, pulling the plug did not seem to work, so I left it on while I was thinking about it, and the PSU suddenly shut down. I pulled the plug and tried again, and it's booted up properly ever since. I know the ground is good because it's a GFI outlet, and it checks out good with the tester. I've tried three different PSUs over the last three months, and it does it with all of them. Any suggestions on where to look? TIA, Russ
If the HDD light is on, then that's either a drive/cable failure or a POST failure. The drive LED should go off before POST completes.
Sam, It never get's to the drive, it doesn't post at all! No beep, no video, no nothing! Best Regards, Russ
The drives are pretty easily examined, if the problem recurs, unplug all the data cables for them (from the board end) and see if it happens again.
I don't know if this will help, but I always read about you guys talking about these hardrive covers, here is a link from SMS with a promo code, $9.99 for a dual case plus you get another free with the code. http://www.supermediastore.com/prod...ign=110804 Beat the Summer Heat - We Deliver! COUPON CODE : NC7BGF
We don't really use 2.5" drives much, so I don't think that's probably going to be of use to many, still, could be for some at least
If the PS isn't the problem it must be something to do with your mainboard, regulators - Caps or what not. Inspect the caps on the MB to see if any of them are bloated, cracking or leaking. PS testers are not 100% either I've had weak PS's that tested fine but in fact were bad under normal capacitive load, they only are accurate when they show a failed supply. So my thought is your motherboard is the problem.
Reminds me slightly of my problem. Perhaps I should look closer at my motherboard. On the other hand, replacing a s-ata cable or more could have the impact I need I have a steady HDD led within windows. Never a post problem. It generally happens once every 10 min or so. I use to think it happened at regular intervals. I don't believe that's the case anymore. It's erratic. When it does happen, I noticed that the main C:\ drive becomes unresponsive for a short time(A few seconds). No matter what I'm doing. I don't believe my i/o is saturated :S I've been meaning to reformat windows, and see if that corrects the problem. I have a file on my main drive which bothers me. It won't let me delete it. I tried programs like "Hijack this" to no avail. The blue spike you see is what's called "High disk activity time". Even with extreme processes, it generally doesn't go very high. But this bug causes it to reach 100% and nearly lock up. If I'm streaming netflix/watching video, it freezes. Though the audio continues to go normally. THe processor seems unaffected. Strangest bug I've ever seen.
My windows power management settings have expired, so I can no longer set the spindown interval for disks, it is strictly enforced at 20 minutes, regardless of what settings are chosen, that can cause me some issues when drives are spinning up. However, I can occasionally get I/O timeouts to my C: drive too. I suspect it's probably the S-ATA cable, that cable's been in there for at least 4 months, is long overdue for replacement. The OS also needs a reformat, because I lost my windows 7 DVD, I had to download one and use my serial. This it turns out, not a good idea, as the version I downloaded keeps BOOTMGR on the DVD, and does not install it to the hard drive, so the DVD needs to be in the drive for windows to boot. Will probably reformat soon with a better version, but it's annoying as this was only installed a couple of months ago.
Amusingly, I lose USB drives far more often than I lose DVDs, so not really practical for me. Does using USB drives remove the wait period blocks in the windows install I wonder?